Hi all, I'm new to the forum. Very nice, so little spam and flaming.
I have a question about finishing outdoor furniture. I'm planning to build a
sofa, chair and coffee table out of either teak or Honduran mahogany (if
someone has another good suggestion, I'm open.) I don't want the wood to
weather to grey but rather maintain the natural color of the wood. I realize
yearly maintenance will be required. I was thinking exterior grade
polyurethane. Can anyone give me some suggestions as to how to proceed?
San Diego Joe
On Wed, 02 Mar 2005 14:28:10 -0800, San Diego Joe wrote:
I've used it on windows. Cetol 1 is not a stain but a tinted varnish. It
actually produces a film. Good stuff (so far).
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email
I made two pieces of furniture last year. One is coated with Sikkins Cetol
and the other with Peonofin. Both have UV inhibitors. While they seem to
be OK, I'll have to get back to you in five years. I also have a bench
coated with Minwax Helmsman that is doing well after about 4 years.
You can't win this one, especially living in S/D.
If you don't want to believe me, take a walk down on Shelter Island and
look at some of the boats.
If you don't want to let it gray natural, might consider redwood. It
will still require maintenance, but at least you can stay with it.
I hear this said often, but I look at boats on the St. Lawrence Seaway - a
lot of 80 year old Lymans and the likes that are Mahogany, and they look
like the day they were built. I don't know what the varnish is that they
use on these things, but it works, and they don't refinish them every year.
I'd suggest checking with a newsgroup for boats.
Totally different world.
1) You are in a fresh, not a salt water area.
(There is a reason they refer to fresh water as "sweet water")
2) Since you are at a higher latitude, you have a much shorter season,
say 4 months, maybe 4-1/2, thus much less UV to content with than in the
San Diego area with year around UV damage.
As an example, given the same amount of time on the water, if you get 10
years out of a set of sails on the Great Lakes, but you might only get
2-3 in San Diego.
Same applies to coatings.
Totally different ball game.
IMHO, you would rather wear a hair shirt than try to maintain teak
OTOH, Honduras mahogany can be maintained since you can get a good bond
between the wood and your favorite flavor of sheep dip you call varnish.
BTW, latest price for a case of 6, 1,000 ML cans of Epifanes Gloss
Varnish is $132.54 + shipping.
A favorite for boats.
If you check it out, will probably find a major difference in price
between Redwood & Honduras Mahogany.
Also, if you can live with that stuff they bring in from Africa I call
"mahogany of the week", you will save a few $.
In your clime, Mahogany _will_ be maintenance intensive. Marine 'spar'
varnish with UV inhibitors -- with full strip/refinish required every
couple of years, and _probably_ more often. (Depends how much of the
time the furniture is in the shade, and how close to the water you are.
I had family in Mission Beach, on the strip between the Ocean and the Bay.
Stuff at that house *really* took a beating!) Teak, only a little less so.
Redwood will also require maintenance, but considerably less. A good
redwood/cedar oil stain will hold for several years, and re-treatment
is just wash the dirt off, and re-apply. "Rez" brand cedar stain is
*good* stuff on redwood.
Redwood, teak, and cypress, are about indestructible, but all turn 'grey'
if left to weather naturally. They _will_ retain the 'original' color,
if you keep up the oils in the wood.
Ipe will dull cheap tools. It does machine well and needs no finish for
typical outdoor use. It does sand or scrap smooth (think hammer handles).
I made an garden bench for an old neighbor, she left it in the garden for
over 10 years. Never touched it other than sitting.
A google search on its properties will give you more info.
ultimately you're wasting your time. wood left outdoors turns grey,
weathers, splits and eventually decomposes. you can slow it down a
little, mebbe a few seasons, but if you want to keep the original
color keep it indoors.
On Thu, 03 Mar 2005 17:57:23 -0700, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
brown. Tried exterior poly and spar poly with added UV block. Nothing worked
for much more than two years. Finally found that a thin wb poly will last that
long, and doesn't crack, so every 2 years I run a belt sander over the top and
recoat. I figure it's last for several decades before it gets too thin to hold
a coffee cup:-)
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