Good question - smart to think about this at the design stage rather
than a couple years down the road. A few ideas (I haven't tried them,
just some thoughts...)
You could include wood "feet" of some sort that expose long grain to
the ground - kind of like a traditional workbench. Look around -
there's a picture (though it doesn't show the feet closely) at
Depending on the project, you could also use some sort of leveling
feet or even large-diameter bolts that screw into T-nuts in the ends
of the legs. For example,
Furniture on the lawn (glider, bench) get nylon slides tapped into the bottom
of the legs, then are
set on bricks. The bricks keep the legs out of the damp grass and a little bit
above the weed
Furniture on the patio gets nylon glides tapped into the bottom of the leg.
This gives about a
quarter inch of clearance from the concrete, and isn't really noticeable. The
slides tend to crack
over time and need to be replaced every year or two. They're fairly cheap from
It doesn't hurt to seal the bottom of the legs with a couple coats of finish,
epoxy being our
favorite for the bottom of outdoor legs. We still put on the slides and use the
bricks, but I wear
a belt and suspenders too..
Probably a dozen other ways to protect the lumber, but this seems to work for us.
> What can be done with outdoor furniture that rests on the ground?
> Although I'm using PT lumber, the end-grain of the furniture legs make
> direct contact with the ground.
As others have suggested, furniture glides.
I'd make them from 1/2" sheet PVC stock using #14 Coarse thread, pan
head, S/S, sheet metal screws.
You can make them any size needed.
C'bore the PVC plastic to allow the screw heads to be recessed.
I use them as a standard,
Thew won't cold flow, and are UV resistant.
Cut a shallow rabbet around the bottom edges of each leg. Screw 3 or 4
screws into the bottom of each leg leaving the heads about 1/4 inch proud
of the leg bottom. Wrap each leg with packing or duct tape and make a
dam around each leg. The edge of the tape should be at least 1/2 inch
below the end of each leg. Invert the chair/table and pour epoxy onto the
end of each leg and fill the cavity/pocket. When the epoxy has completely
cured sand everything smooth.
Make sure your PT wood is dry before doing this or your new end cap
will break loose as the wood dries and shrinks.
If you need special sized feet for the bottom of wooden legs where they will
get constantly wet, use a cheap plastic cutting board. You can trim to size
and shape it with woodworking tools. They keep the water from the end grain
and prevent any damage.
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