I want one
*jumping up and down*I want one!!
I get excited sometimes.
0¿0Rob--->who had seen one before but didn't know how reasonable they were.
*gags*Robatoy wrote:
Yahbut, it'll come down in price..., some day.
And me also.
My dream rig involves a pointer and a 'puter. Put the 'puter some where near by and walk about the room shoving the pointer into every corner, nook and cranny, up, down and left to right.
End of the day, field dimensions in all three axis.
sigh...
UA100
I have *got* to get me one of those! Dave
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If you like that, you might like the table-top "touchless" product that one of my neighbors manufactures:
I have made some headway with a make-shift method.
I paste 1/4" yellow Avery Dots (little labels/markers) all over an existing countertop. I also place a framer-style square on the counter. I have painted it yellow. I take a digital photograph. In Photoshop, I get rid of all the colours 'cept yellow. Export to Illustrator. (By now, I have about 15 minutes invested) Then I draw a 24" x 16" L-shape on a transparent fore-ground. I then distort the picture of the dots, in the back-ground till the squares match. That gives me my 'known' base. I connect the dots with the pen tool and export .DWG to Vectorworks where I dimension the drawing. (By now, I have about 1 hour invested.)
The 1/2 a dozen times I tried it, I was within 1" initially and later closer to 1/4" (compared to actual measurements). The biggest issue is that my Nikon CoolPix 885 has pin-cushion distortion at wide angles, so big countertops are a PITA.
Maybe I need a better camera??? Ohhh the pain!! Can't you just feel the pain?
0¿0Rob---->who is sticking to his luan strip templates for those paying jobs, because they work.
Hot melt or screws?
My problem is the things I need to field measure/verify are usually a couple/few states away making the dragging of templates somewhat cumbersome.
Now, an electronic pointy stick, that's the bomb.
UA100
1/8" x 2 7/8" x 8' luan. Then I stack them and chop-saw 25" of the stack. Those are my counter 'depth' pieces. (One of my guys likes 1/8" MDF better "because it is not so 'slivery'"....wimp.) Sometimes, when I do an 'elevated' template ( on top of an existing counter ) I make blocks, about 3" high and hot-melt them along the front of the existing counter. The knock off easily after templating. That way you get to scribe the back wall on top of the back splash. The back of the counter I scribe with a Sharpie (gives me 1/4" offset) I assemble the template with a couple 3-M poly guns (hot-melt) Then, in strategic places, I cut the templates with 3" aviation snips and mark the template with all the important info..sink location, radius corners, finished edges etc. I also mark where all the gables are so I make sure there won't be a seam over the dishwasher...NEVER put a seam over the dishwasher. I include the overhang of the counter top in my template. (I used to do the cabinets only...some people just can't add 1 1/2".) I end up with chunks of template
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