I make my own. I use waterstones, and I already saw them up for some
final sword polishing jobs. A wet diamond tile saw does it fine. If I
need a special for a gouge, I can saw one roughly, then sand it to
shape with a bit of J-Flex.
I can see that working in an India stone, but for a waterstone any
sort of constant radius movement looked like it would very quickly
wear a groove.
I'm not a carver, and if I am doing any carving it's almost always in
lime or maybe walnut, neither of which are hard on tools. I do try to
keep a dedicated area of the workshop for sharpening though, to reduce
setup time if I want to quickly hone something.
Even in lime (or it's American equivalent, basswood) or walnut you need to hone your
tools constantly. Like every few minutes. Trust me, it makes an enormous difference
in carving. You can use a stop which will conform to the shape of the tools or you
can use the groove method, but in either case it's charged with honing compound.
You don't need "good", you need "adequate"
"Adequate" means that the mouth is in good order, and with some effort
you can get it to work as a plane.
"Good" means that it also has a usable wedge, there's no woodworm, the
iron has a flattish surface where it ought to and it's more or less
clean. You can live with any of these faults, or re-make broken
I guess I'd only want "good" ones, fettling is hard friggen work as I've discovered.
I have now spent many hours doing what I have been reading about since catching
interest and getting into this group! That's a big problem with most sellers on
eBay concerning these types of planes, is the images they show, far too many are
I don't think I've ever seen a moulding plane with significant
wear on the blade.
Rust and bad sharpening, rot and worm, yes, often.
But moulding planes have an easy life, compared to bench planes.
Often, they weren't even used to create the moulding profile
from scratch. Some roughing work was done with other
planes (jacks, ploughs, rebates) to remove the bulk of the waste,
Here is an exception: item # 6120702585
IIRC, this guy *always* shows the profile and most of the time shows the
full iron. In fact, the thumbnail for every one of his current molding
planes is the profile.
Here's another one: 6121357999
Unfortunately a lot of the sellers are in the Aunty Cue bidness and don't
really know how to sell to users vs collectors.
Even the oldest buildings in Calgary are made of glass. ;-) I'm not
surprised that this is the worst place in the world for finding
moulding planes, but the abundance that seems to exist in every
direction continues to amaze me. I'll have to get out more.
Hmmm...I've been planning a trip north for some time now...
(remove all letters after y in the alphabet)
Not using them myself but I want to learn to, I have this idea as a part
box / jewelry box making with molding planes, to do both edges in
design as well as the top paneling as one uncut board, then do the
cutting, miter cutting and any dovetail work after, then assemble. My
problem is learning just "what" to buy and know about in these
complex planes, including what hollows and rounds are about.
There isn't a website I can find that is all about it. Any ideas? Books?
How to Make Wooden Planes
by David G. Perch
Making Traditional Wooden Planes
by John M. Whelan
Making and Mastering Wood Planes
by David Finck
(I have a copy of the last one and would buy it again.)
Plus a number of books on American and British wooden plane makers.
Great references, thanks. I have the one by John M. Whelan already
and the designs seem very simplistic from the past, a starting point.
As it is now, I am fascinated, but am at a complete novice stage in
learning "neander" woodwork so it is a future project. But definitely.
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