Dumb question about drawer slides

Page 1 of 2  
OK, this is one that has got me pretty much stumped, although I suppose I could make an accurate guess and be safe.
For a standard kitchen cabinet installation, what length of full-extension drawer slide is commonly used? I don't have full extension slides in my kitchen, so I have no way to measure. I assume for a 24" deep cabinet, you use 22" slides? Or are the 24" designation slides for 24" cabinets? Any ideas before I buy a bunch of slides that are either too short or too long?
--
Jon Endres, PE
Reply To: wmengineer (at) adelphia (dot) net
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I never built a kitchen cabinet, but I just finished a router table. The inside depth is 20.25 with 20" deep drawers and I bought and installed 20" full extension slides. I assume that the proper length is approximately equal to the depth of the drawer.
When I get my digital camera back (SWMBO lent it to a friend) I will post some pics.
-- Al Reid
"It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble. It's what you know for sure that just ain't so." --- Mark Twain
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Hi Jon,
Since you index the install of the slide of the drawer opening, the only thing you have to ensure is that the slide will fit from the front of the opening backward (i.e. you can live with a short slide, but not a slide that is too long).
I usually leave some room for error and get a slide that is one size shorter than the nominal length of the drawer. So, for your situation I would suggest the 22" drawer slide. You don't want to overdo it (i.e. get a 16" drawer slide for a 24" drawer), as this is the entire support system for the drawer. A few inches of unsupported drawer won't be a big deal.
Mike
message

you
long?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I'm working on 24" base cabinets right now (for the shop, not kitchen). I chose to use 22" slides, but I will still build the drawers as long as I can, probably about 23". So the full extension slides will actually not quite expose all of the drawer. Doesn't bother me at all.
The answer to your question would also depend on whether you have face frames or frameless cabinets. You cannot get a 24" slide into a face frame carcase. In fact, my 24" frameless cabinets are only 23-3/4" deep.
BTW, I bought my slides from Grizzly. They have a ShopFox line of full extension, 100 lb capacity, ball bearing, for ~$10 a pair. They seem excellent so far. http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=H2915
-- ******** Bill Pounds http://www.bill.pounds.net/woodshop
message

you
long?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
"Jon Endres, PE" wrote in message

you
long?
The depth of your cabinet is the overriding consideration. You can put a longer, or shorter, slide on a drawer and it will work fine as long as the difference is not too great, but you are definitely limited by the cabinet depth, (less the face frame if you use them), for the slide length. ;>)
I used 22" slides for all my 24" deep cabinets.
Face frame cabinets with side mount slides? If so, take note of the following, if not disregard.
Design the cabinets so that there is 1/2" between the cabinet sides and the sides of drawer opening as defined by the edge of the face frame.
Then mount your drawer slides on a 1/2" thick secondary material (poplar works well), then attach that assembly to the cabinet sides, using precut spacers for vertical accuracy. This will insure that your drawer slides are flush with the drawer opening.
Additionally, with most side mount drawer slides, you design your drawers exactly 1" narrower than the drawer opening, but be sure to check on this clearance dimension for your particular slides _before_ you make your drawers.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 1/16/04
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Sounds like a good approach.
I did just as you suggested on a Secretary Desk I recently completed. I had 3/4" instead of 1/2" between the drawer opening and the cabinet side and used 3/4" secondary material to mount the slides on.
-- Al Reid
"It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble. It's what you know for sure that just ain't so." --- Mark Twain
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
"Al Reid" wrote in message

had 3/4" instead of 1/2" between the drawer opening and the

That works ... as you well know, prior planning is the key to having an _easy_ time of mounting drawers in kitchen cabinets ... and by the time you get to that stage, EASY is what you're looking for. :)
Doing 19 drawers in my own kitchen cabinets, and many more besides since then, I made a little jig for mounting the drawer slides on the secondary material ... it comes in handy for consistent placement of the drawer slide with regard to the face frame, and for insuring they are square ... both critical components of EASY installation.
I will be glad to post a picture to ABPW if Jon requests it.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 1/16/04
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I for one, would love to see it (hanging drawers isn't second nature yet for me).

you
slide
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

you
slide
Yes, I'd like to see it.
While I may not go the Grizzly approach another poster mentioned, I'll most likely get my slides either from eBay or from Rockler, and get Rockler's JIG-IT guide. I figure, for a whole kitchen (almost 50 feet of base cabinets, mostly drawers), a few extra bucks on materials and tools offsets the cost of buying the cabinets premade.
FWIW, I am building my cabinets modular-style, 30" and 24" widths, I have an open plan that doesn't require odd sizes. They will all be face-frame, inset doors and drawers, modified shaker-style.
Thanks for all the replies.
Jon
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@killspammers.die.die.die.adelphia.net says...

Jon,
Another option is GlideRite. They're an import slide like Grizzly, but quite inexpensive and really quite good for the money.
www.gliderite.com
--
Regards,

Rick

(Remove the HIGH SPOTS for e-mail)
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Jon,
Please rethink the 30" and 24" sizes. Your sink base really needs to be at least 36" in order to get a sink in, especially if it is stainless with the bottom clips. The "typical" sink is 32-33" wide. Also, if you make some 48" cabinets, you will eliminate two side pieces worth of material and labor to make the cabinet (you can make the face frame for either three or four doors). Considering the size of modern refrigerators, you need at least 36" (should be 40") of wall space , and the cabinet above if that is your plan.
--
Alan Bierbaum

Web Site: http://www.calanb.com
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Wed, 21 Jan 2004 23:37:18 GMT, "Jon Endres, PE"

Jon:
I've always had good luck with the Accurides and the 3832's were my standard series. You can make a jig by printing out a full sized template in a CAD program. (It would be a nice idea if slide manufacturers provided a download of such a template).
You will need to increase the size of your module at the sink base to something more in line with the 36" standard, as 30" is too skimpy for standard sinks.
I've had the best luck by packing out the insides of the cabinet to the inside edge of the face frame, or (preferably), running the inside edge of the face frame in the same plane as the inside edge of the box. This, of course, means an applied drawer front.
This way you have an overhang of the face frame, which can be useful as a scribe in the corners. The appearance, from the front elevation is indistingusihable from an overhanging face frame and it saves you a lot of time. If you are biscuiting on the frame, you simply reference from the inside edge, rather than the outside.
Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker (ret) Real Email is: tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet Website: http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Tom Watson wrote:

It looks like Accuride took your suggestion to heart. Check:
http://www.accuride.com/products/woodworking/details.php?p832sc&c=mediumduty_wa
They have a link to a "CAD drawing (.dfx)" file
-- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA (Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

Damn, that was fast!
Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker (ret) Real Email is: tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet Website: http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Tom Watson wrote:

Accuride does but they have to be scaled. Some people haven't caught on yet to AutoCAD and drawing full size in model space. Anyway, I 'specially love the flipper door hardware templates. Makes it look like you spent hours drawing the thing.
It's Hafele that I wish had downloadable dxf's.
UA100
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
brought forth from the murky depths:

I downloaded the Accuride file 3832sc_std.zip.php (WTF?), viewed the raw header (PK for Zip file), stripped the .php off the end, and tried to get SoftCad3D, TurboCad Lite, PTC Pro/Desktop, and Intellicad2000 (all 4 freebies) to read it. None could. Sigh...
No feedback has come from Accuride yet, but I'm willing to bet that their draftsmen use the most current copy of AutoCad and output files readable only to that. I wish more web folks knew to use copies of programs 1 or 2 versions back (or to save as a more generic version, readable to older programs) so the rest of the world could view their work. Sigh #2...
---------------------------------------------------------------- "Let's sing praise to Aphrodite || www.diversify.com She may seem a little flighty, || Full Service Websites but she wears a green gauze nighty, || PHP Applications And she's good enough for me." || SQL Database Development
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Larry,
I downloaded their DXF's in the past without any problem and just did so. Did you click on the link and fill out the form? Perhaps you just downloaded the form's php code.
-- Al Reid
"It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble. It's what you know for sure that just ain't so." --- Mark Twain

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Larry Jaques wrote:

And God bless Al Gore for passing the legislation that enabled Auto Desk to be invented.
UA100
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Grrrrr.
Take the very *worst* customer support and service you could possibly find in the computer software industry, add twice the bugs normally found in a Windoze product, mix in an "upgrade or die" policy along with one of the most aggressive anti-piracy campaigns known to man, a pricing structure GUARANTEED to encourage software piracy, a product that the industry is virtually crippled without (can you say monopoly?), and you have Autodesk.
I use it every day, and my hatred of it grows with each click of the mouse, each press of a key, each Fatal Error, and each lost file.
Jon E
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
My problem is that I have AutoCad, TurboCad and a few others but I can use AutoDesk in my sleep. The learning curve is the obstacle to change.
RB
Jon Endres, PE wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.