Here's a little woodworking tip. When you're gluing up a drawer, put the
drawer bottom in BEFORE you glue it up. Has anyone else noticed that the
speed at which glue sets up is directly proportional to your need to take
the joint apart?
On Fri, 28 May 2004 08:44:18 -0500, "Todd Fatheree"
|Here's a little woodworking tip. When you're gluing up a drawer, put the
|drawer bottom in BEFORE you glue it up.
Good tip; I will try to remember it.
|Has anyone else noticed that the
|speed at which glue sets up is directly proportional to your need to take
|the joint apart?
Especially if you've just fired in some brads to hold it together
until the glue dries. [g].
That crossed my mind too Dave. Although I don't usually build them that
way, that would be a good way to fix the problem. Just take a cut across
the back of the drawer and slip the bottom in place. My preference for
drawers is to enclose them in a dado on all four sides. I've seen too many
drawers with the bottom sagging loose at the back, which of course is not a
problem with the technique but with the execution.
Now you know just one of the reasons why the above is still my favorite
method of drawer construction. I've never had one sag and, should someone
ask, rank the ability to do any future fixes to the bottom of a drawer as an
The way I do it is to rabbet the groove in all 4, and then cut off the back
from the rabbet down. The drawer bottom then slides right in the
back, 3 brads with large-ish heads and I'm done. Might be another
way to do it, but that's what I've been doing.
If you are using a plywood bottom then the usual method is to glue it
in resulting in a very strong drawer. The method being described of
sliding the dawer in is generally used in 'fine' furniture where the
drawer bottom is of solid wood. The bottom panel is glued up with the
grain running side to side. This requires some method to deal with
wood movement.. Hence, the back is left open and the drawer tacked in
using a slotted screw hole . Note: Don't make the mistake of gluing
up bottom panel with grain running front to back of drawer unless you
want some very stuck drawers :-)
much as, or more than, the thickness of the drawer back. In other
words; you cannot make the dado deep enough to allow for maximum wood
movement due to moisture.
web site: http://www.calanb.com
It's almost as hard as trying to route the grooves for the bottom after the
glueup:-( Then you have to round the corners to fit in the front and hand
saw/chisel the pieces in the back the router can't reach.
And it's not just drawers.
I'm doing a box - profiled maple bottom "frame" with fiddle back cherry
panel, rosewood carcase/carcass, profiled maple top "frame" with
fiddle back cherry panel. The "frames" have 1/4" loose tenon joints,
which, while great for aligning things and strengthening the miter join,
makes the glue up a little more complicated. And if you're doing it at
midnite - well ....
Fortunately, the carcase/carcass hasn't been glued up yet so I can
still route a groove in those parts for the bottom panel. Of course
the dado on the inside of the bottom maple frame will show. Maybe
I'll put cherry in the groove and call it an intended inlay "feature"
that only the owner will know about. People love secrets. There's
a Navajo or Hopi jeweler, Charles Laloma, who does bracelets and
rings which have the best stones in the piece on the inside of the
Short of "shorting" a part, most screw ups can, with a little
imagination, be turned into a "feature".
All roads lead to Rome. But the closer you get, the longer it
takes to get there.
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