Tip: Baking Soda and Super Glue

Not a big deal. Filled plastics are extremely common. Baking soda is probably not a good filler if it gets wet. For a quick and dirty repair super glue is probably OK but repair would be more durable if epoxy were used.

I used to build model R/C airplanes and that was a common trick. It makes a nice fillet.

That's the type of application I was thinking of. When I used to build Soap Box Derby cars, we'd make the air-foil fillets with epoxy and West System 405 filler. That's fine for "large" applications, but for small applications like yours, small batches of epoxy and fillet blend would be over-kill (wasteful).

I'm going to store this tip away for future use.

It would be a little slow too. When you're building a wing there are a lot of rib/spar joints and you can move right along with CA.

If you're doing something that requires a lot of CA hit the hobby stores. They have a lot of flavors and relatively large quantities. I can tell you when you're reinforcing the root joint with mesh and slathering on the CA, it gets a little intense. Who needs proper ventilation?

Slow can be OK when you have to sculpt the fillet. I'll play before I actually use this mixture, but I'm just curious:

How much time do you have to work the BS & SG mixture before it cures too much to work?

About .032 seconds with most CA. I mostly used Hot Stuff, which is fast anyway. There are thicker, slower CA glues but if I was doing something that required working the joint I'd go with epoxy.

Baking soda is an accelerator so it's counter-productive if you want something to be workable. You can sand it after the fact but you're not going to be doing any sculpting.

So for building fillets, you would "sculpt" the BS as much as possible and then just drizzle on the CA?

With super glue, that is the only way you could. You don't have to use baking soda, BTW, any fine powder will do...talc, pumice, wood sanding dust...whatever.

If you want to form the mass prior to its hardening, you would do better using thickened epoxy (same sort of materials to thicken, personally, I like talc). The epoxy starts to set much more slowly, needs 24 hours minimum to fully cure.

...as shown in the video I posted.

...as I have already addressed earlier in this thread.

Ambroid not good enough for you? Never tried CA on balsa. You should have told me 40 years ago.

Yes. It wasn't a work of art, just a way to fill any gaps. Opaque MonoKote covers a multitude of sins.

Never knew that.

In the 70s I worked for the sister company of Sullivan Products (Pylon Brand) so I was able to get most anything for RC free or 50% off from distributors. Fun hobby.

I was doing contract work in the '80s and even if I was working in Boston I'd just rent a apartment, stay down during the week, and go home to New Hampshire weekends. Building R/C models was something to do that was fairly portable and didn't require a huge number of tools. Flying them was another matter. I'd go electric next time, skip the fuel, glow plugs, balky engines, noise, and so forth.

I'm just a bit curious about this. Has anyone ever put one of those little engines into a roller blade wheel? It seems to be an obvious experiment.

I guess the main problrm would be synchonising the left & right drives.

Back in the day I recall someone adapted a model engine to a push scooter sort of like the modern razers. At least it drove a wheel.

How many ways could a prop driven scooter go wrong?

Thanks, Uncle. I guess I should have invested a few seconds into a web search before I posted.

My favorite was the outboard motorized unicyle, but I find myself thinking that a puller would be safer than a pusher.

Also, what about a big drone on a rope? (Shrouded for safety, of course.) You could have a jet engine as well. (Whoops, I just realized that behind a jet is problematic.)