Digital Sliding T-Bevel

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On 2/15/2012 11:51 AM, Swingman wrote:

It's pretty common for me to need to set my (regular ol') sliding bevel to some oddball angle, and for years I've been using various protractors or angle gauges to do it. I recently bought this little gem: http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?pd278&cat=1,43513 to do it instead, and while it works OK, it's still pretty cumbersome for that purpose and I think that digital sliding bevel will be just the ticket for me. I put one on order; we shall see how it works out.
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Well, I guess then its not a bad deal for you. I have kind of liked the idea of: http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?pR403&cat=1,42936,50298&ap=2
but have used various protractors to set my angle. And after just revisiting the page, at almost twice the price, I guess 20 is not so bad a risk.
On 2/15/2012 2:46 PM, Steve Turner wrote:

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Seems to me that if the blade is more accurate than the read-out just use the blade... I've got no problem laying my sliding bevel up against the saw plate on my CMS and TS, and against the miter gauges on the TS, BS, and router table... and there are no batteries to go dead or crystals/lenses to break!
John
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On Feb 15, 2:52 pm, "John Grossbohlin"

Always a legitimate question: what sortakinda batteries does this thing consume and what does one have to pay for those?
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On 2/15/2012 2:24 PM, Robatoy wrote:

It uses the ubiquitous ''CR2032'' battery. I keep a blister pack of a dozen of that particular battery in the shop has almost every tool that has a digital readout uses it.
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On 2/21/2012 10:16 AM, Swingman wrote:

I only have two digital readouts in the shop, one uses an L44 and one, the Wixy uses the cr2032 thing. I think they all should use solar cells like my $10, 35 year old calculator that runs easily off the shop lights.
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On 2/22/2012 9:45 AM, Jack wrote:

My old Aurora D19, which I've had for about 25 years, still works as long as I bring it can get sunlight. Still my favorite desktop calculator of all time ... so much so that I built a holder for it out of scraps some years back:
https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopJustStuff#5684906486789300626
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Swingman wrote:

https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopJustStuff#5684906486789300626
Wow, snazzy! : )
Bill
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On 2/22/2012 11:22 AM, Swingman wrote:

https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopJustStuff#5684906486789300626 Mine lives on top of my TS Fence. It has a fake leather case, might be real leather, who knows. It's small, and has about 4 tiny solar cells that run it off my shop lights, no sun needed.
http://jbstein.com/Flick/Calc.jpg
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You've got too much time on your hands Karl.
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BTW, for what purpose are blue tape strips on the cabinet? Decidedly, the tape is covering some type of putty/plastic wood or similar type of filler, but for the life of me, I can't figure out what you need the tape for.
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On 2/22/2012 8:57 PM, Dave wrote:

ASCII, and you shall receive. :)
Multi-purpose, time saving, methodology:
Tape is applied, beforehand, to the exact locations on the cabinet parts were finishing nails are to be shot.
This helps to accurately locate the intended nailing spots, and thus minimizes the ever present chance of a blowout on visible parts of the cabinet, which would then have to be repaired.
After the finishing nail is shot, wood filler is applied to the nail hole, _on top of the tape_ , making for a precise filling of the nail hole only, with no overspill.
After removal of the tape, this makes for much less cleanup and sanding needed, particularly handy if the nail hole is on a veneer that may be thin to start with.
And, strangely enough, actually has somewhat of the effect of making the precisely filled nail hole less visible after staining and finishing.
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On 2/22/2012 9:27 PM, Swingman wrote:

Really not strange at all!. :!)
The tape keeps the putty "out" of the surrounding wood grain. When the putty gets in the surrounding wood grain it is quite visible regardless of how well you sand. Well unless you sand down to the bottom of the wood grain.
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On 2/22/2012 9:45 AM, Jack wrote:

I agree with that one! I have a calculator like that and it just keeps going and going.
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On 2/15/2012 1:52 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:

I was talking about uses that were more along the line of using it to measure the angle of the corner of room (notoriously un-square), dividing by two, and setting your miter saw to the results ... anything that can get you into the ballpark quicker, at $20, will pay for itself pretty quickly.
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I guess I'm so used to using a protractor and sliding bevel for measuring, and a shooting board for tweaking joints, that I don't even think about dealing with non-square corners as a problem... It goes along with the realization I had while working at Colonial Williamsburg that pretty much the whole man-made world was built without electricity. ;~)
John
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On 2/15/2012 3:06 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:

Absolutely nothing wrong with that ... some of us just find it makes us more competitive to use electricity when feeding the family with the proceeds.
:)
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Yup... There are absolutely times when electricity makes a lot of sense... and other times when meat powered tools make sense... Developing skill with both types of power lets you solve problems and get things done!
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On 2/15/12 3:12 PM, Swingman wrote:

Yeah, if someone wants to take his horse & buggy to work, that's fine with me. Good luck with that.
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Who wants to wait for the Bridge City version at 5 or 10 times the price?
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