I know this is going to sound stupid, but my knowledge of a router is mostly limited to putting a fancy edge on plaques.
I want to take a 30" length of 4" wide board and put a slot all the way through the board about 4" long. the centerline of the slot will be 3/4 of and inch from the edge of the board. Where do I put the fence? Do I hold the board above the router and slowly lower it in position, or do I drill my 5/16 hole first into the board and fit the router bit into the hole, bringing my fence up to the board? Will I get a true straight clean slot this way, with no wobble? Thanks for any and all answers! Paul
sam wrote in news:tSjwl.67921$ snipped-for-privacy@newsfe07.iad:
I'd probably use the second method, of making a hole then setting the fence. However, if you need the groove to be exactly the same size the entire width, you'll have to either make multiple passes with a smaller bit or perform a plunge cut. Be extremely careful with plunge cuts, as you cannot see the bit until it emerges from the board. (They're best done on a hand-held router, but you've gotta use the tools you've got.)
I understand you said router table, but my first choice for routing this operation, work size permitting, would be an edge guided plunge router.
But, going with the router table, I think either way would work, but unless you predrill, be sure the router bit is one suitable for plunging - has a cutting edge that extends completely across the end of the bit.
If the size of the work permits, I'd recommend stop blocks positioned to limit the movement of the work so that the ends of the slot are determined by the stop blocks.
If there is no router lift installed on your table, I think I'd go with the predrilled hole, position the work, then position the fence, the turn on the router. If you do have a router lift, position the fence 3/4" from the edge of the work, position the work against the fence, and raise the bit through the work.
My last choice would be to lower the work onto a spinning bit and then only if stop blocks can be used to locate and restrain the work. I've done it, but have never been comfortable with that technique.
If you use the correct bit you can plunge down to get started.
Set the fence with a pencil mark of where you wnat to start and a stop block for the finish if you need real precise.
You will get a little bit of shake because the bit is cutting in two directions. It would be nice to have some hold downs but a little difficult when you are plunging, but make some sort of feather board, springs of even just a second fence to help keep it from jumping.
a 5/16 slot should be able to cut in one pass in most woods pretty easy but play with feed speed. Also, clogging can be an issue where the chips don't evacuate but a full through slot should make this not to problematic and strong down suction dust removal will be a big help.
Another option is to place the piece on top of a sacrificial piece of ply and construct a jig over the top with a few boards and do it free hand. In this case I would take multiple succesivly deeper passes and you can control super precise start and stop locations.
Or even just use a base guide on the router and do it free hand.
Lots o > I know this is going to sound stupid, but my knowledge of a router is
Thanks for all the answers! I'm a little leary of lowering the board onto the table with a spinning router. I have ten fingers and I want to keep them! I think I will just drill the hole and experiment with scrap wood. My problem is I want it to look like it came from a professional shop. Thanks, Paul
Are you trying to make a stopped slot - where the slot does not come all the way to the edges of the board? I'm not clear from your description - it almost sounds like you're just trying to figure out how to set the fence and take into consideration the width of the cutter. If that's the case, there is no need to do a plunge cut, just add 1/2 the bit diameter to your 3/4 inch center line and you should have it.
Like I said though, I might not be clear on what you are trying to accomplish...
Your drawing does not "for sure" indicate whether you are using a router table and fence or a router with a fence.
I'll assume you are using a router table. I did virtually the same thing on the drill press table fence that I posted on a.b.p.w. If you pre drill a hole to begin the slot you literally have to be dead on accurate. I don't recommend doing it this way, it is an unnecessary step. Start with a shallow cut and begin the cut as close to the far left end of the cut as possible. Basically you only want to feed the stock from right to left with the stock being between you and the fence. This direction will allow the spinning router bit to keep the stock pulled up against the fence. Going in the opposite direction will cause the bit to pull the stock away from the fence.
To start the cut each time rest the tail end of the board on the table and hover the end to be cut above the bit and against the fence. With the tail end setting on the table it is easier to keep the board surface parallel to the table top. Slowly pivot the stock down on to the router bit until it rests on the table and then slowly feed the stock the required distance.
Raise the bit a bit more and repeat until the bit goes all the way through the wood.
I would be fearful of starting up a router bit in an existing hole. If it touches any where when you start the router it is going to grab and slap the board. Better to have the bit spinning before it comes in contact with the board.
I just did this yesterday on some mortise holes. I used stops at each end of the fence, and lowered the board on the spinning bit, with one end of the board resting on the table. Used a feather board to hold the board against the fence.
BUT... I used some scraps first to 1st: set the exact depth of the cutter, 2nd: set the distance from the fence, and 3rd-17th! to set both stops. When all was perfect, I proceded on the actual pieces.
Oh, yes, keep yer fingers well clear of that bit!!!
Better yet, look up "Multi-router" ala David Marks. Not only is this setup safe, accurate and easy - it's about the coolest router accessory I've ever seen. Might be a bit expensive, but it sure would be nice to have in the shop!
Better yet, look up "Multi-router" ala David Marks. Not only is this setup safe, accurate and easy - it's about the coolest router accessory I've ever seen. Might be a bit expensive, but it sure would be nice to have in the shop!
The Multirouter being a $3,000.00 router accessory it would be cheaper for the OP to simply pay a pro to do the "slot".
Yes, super cool. I hope to have one soon. However, they only have an
8" throw so if you are doing a longer slot it will be a little less perfect for the job. Even though they are dead accurate, unclamping and moving the stock to continue a cut is never perfect. Probably more than perfect enough though.
Interesting side note (to some): Many of the folks who I know that are using this unit to do furniture are often (or exclusively) using it like a domino with floating tenons when doing M&T. Even though it does mortise and tenon, the tenons are more setup and less consistent. I also see that most of these folks do not pin both sides of the joint, so in my opinion, they are not building furniture that will last forever. A true pinned M&T has a mechanical lock in addition to the glue and the glue will fail someday.
The biggest source or error in this case would be the accuracy of the dimensioning of the stock to begin with. IOW, with the M-R, the cut will be as accurate as using the most accurate of fences on any other type of tool ... for you would clamp the stock to the table, and move the table, which is, in effect, the "fence" in this type of operation.
An added benefit, that is not usually available when passing the stock over the cutting device, instead of vice versa, is that clamping pressure to the M-R's table can mitigate error in the flatness of the stock.
Granted, as you say, we're talking a case of "perfect enough".
Yabbut, forever is a long time and the "pin" is also glued in, and, as you say, glue will fail someday ... and, it is arguable that the wood itself will not last "forever" in any event. :)
It would be interesting to see some test results bearing out your contention. Like you, my gut feeling is that pinning would certainly add some mechanical strength to any joint, but how much, or whether it is necessary, is highly subjective.
IME, it is not remotely necessary to pin a properly done "floating tenon" joint.
AAMOF, in all the test results I've seen of the relative strengths of this type joint compared with various others, I've yet to see a test which "pinned" the floating tenon as one of its parameters.
What is interesting in these tests is that the "rounded" floating tenons performed slightly better than squared ones.
(Fine Woodworking, Nov 2006)
And, while I've been known to do it myself, I would certainly NOT want to leave the impression with anyone that pinning their properly done floating tenon joinery is necessary to it's practical longevity.
I generally agree with your statements but inthe case of the Multirouter and how it uses templates, the size accuracy of the tenon is mostly assured if you use good technique. The position and angle can be effected by the stock prep and it mightbe slightly off ceneter if stock thickness varies from the thickness used for setup, etc.
The real "consistency" issue is related making cuts off the side of an end mill type cutter. You have this long cutter cutting on edge for more than an inch. It can flex. especially if you are doing long tennons. It also can have issues at the shoulders with some chip out or minor gouging, etc.
It's a great system, it's just a little finicky to get it working well on tenons and takes some time to get used to it.
I've heard it can be f> "SonomaProducts.com" wrote
You know, I've been seeing the above online for years now, mostly from one particular detractor who's become infamous on some forums for doing so, but he admits to not ever having, or using but momentarily, a M-R.
AAMOF, I use mostly long 3/8 end mills by choice in mine, but have never had even a 1/4 end mill flex to any discernable degree when doing any task, although I admit it could do so if blunt force was used to bull through a cut ... but a router bit of that length would be far less likely to be lacking in the accuracy department, in my experience.
Basically, it's a tool that is more than accurate enough for all woodworking tasks most woodworkers will ever put it through, and as with all accurate tools, a certain degree of delicacy should be exercised in the use thereof to get the greatest benefit.
One this is for certain ... it is an absolutely invaluable "shop production" tool for a serious, professional woodworker, and it is a production chair maker's dream!
I've seen your work, I'm most impressed with the quality and your expertise, and would say that you, of all folks, deserve one yourself! :)
Well this topic has gone far beyond answering my question. I don't have the money or the expertise to do some of the things suggested. My router is just not strong enough to cut a 5/16 inch slot in Fir, let alone cherry. I guess I'll have to come up with another way of tensioning the warp on my looms. :( but thanks to all who posted. Paul
: > I want to take a 30" length of 4" wide board and put a slot all the way : > through the board about 4" long. the centerline of the slot will be 3/4 : > of and inch from the edge of the board. Where do I put the fence? Do I : > hold the board above the router and slowly lower it in position, or do I : > drill my 5/16 hole first into the board and fit the router bit into the : > hole, bringing my fence up to the board? Will I get a true straight : > clean slot this way, with no wobble? : > Thanks for any and all answers! : > Paul : Well this topic has gone far beyond answering my question. I don't have : the money or the expertise to do some of the things suggested. My router : is just not strong enough to cut a 5/16 inch slot in Fir, let alone : cherry. I guess I'll have to come up with another way of tensioning the : warp on my looms. :( but thanks to all who posted. : Paul
Why use a router table at all for this??
Attach your edge guide to the router, and set it so the edge is 3/4in from the centerline of the collet.
Clamp stop blocks to your piece at a distance equal to half the width of you're routers base from each end of the slot you want to make.
Install you're 5/16th bit, spiral flute is best for this type of work, and set it so it's just above the boards surface.
Put the router on the board, with the edge guide tight against the board, and slide it back and forth. Eyeball to verify the stop blocks are stopping the bit at the correct point. Adjust if needed.
Assuming you don't have a plunge router:
Set the bit for a 1/8in cut, bring the edge guide against the board with the bit slightly above the surface.
Turn the router on, lower the bit into the board and make your first pass.
Turn router off, adjust for a slightly deeper cut, and make a second pass.
Repeat until you have a slot.
Tedious, but not difficult. A plunge router speeds things up a bit.
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