Router questions when using a router table

Since it is end grain, it will never be as smooth as the edge. I find a slower feed rate helps though. I also start the end by climb cutting for a tiny bit to prevent tearout. You can also use a backer board for this.

I have that same router in my table. I like it a lot.

A three inch diameter bit will have a tip speed much faster than a one inch diameter bit. Too fast can be dangerous. There are guidelines published by Woodzone.

try a helical bit.

Edwin has given you some good information. Backing up the stock is good. It is similar to usiing a zero clearance insert on the tablesaw. The block needs to fit tightly against the long grain side of the board so cut the end grain first.

Climb cutting (feeding from left to right on the router table) can help but you must be very careful because the router will attempt to pitch the work across your shop and chew up your fingers.

You also got at least one point. If the profile will remove a bunch of wood, make the cut in several passes. Move the fence to adjust the depth of cut.

Some table operations are pressing the art. They may not be safe or they're overly complicated. As a rule, in those instances, the hand router takes over handily. See the simple templet at the

==================== For end grain the General rules I have used are

GO SLOW... Make Multiple passes

then reach for some sand paoer...

Bob Griffiths

passes......

I usually use sanding to smooth out the end grain. Jim

I do everything suggested:

1. Multiple passes, with the first passes taking out only a small quantity of wood
2. Slow feed with the first few passes (depending on how much wood needs to be removed), but not on the final ones as too slow a feed may result in burning.
3. Climb cutting for the first one or two passes. But I end my climb cut before it reaches the other end as I have experienced tearout if I do the whole thing.
4. I use a square backer board along the fence.

And I still occasionally get tearout.

try a spiral cutter.

On Tue, 22 Feb 2005 01:04:37 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@all.costs wrote (in article ):

I think #4 should be #1. Also if you have cuts to make along the grain direction, do those last so any tearout will be removed..

Bridger, timely info with your router doohicky! Usually I try to use a flush trim bit but my project was a bit too strange (round) and your trick was ideal...

-Bruce

I agree with bridger on the spiral cutter if you're cutting a rebate, but I was thinking mainly of doing profiles on endgrain (e.g. an ogee thinks weegie). Unless bridger has a source for spiral cut profile bits?

Agreed.

What's bridger's router doohicky?

glad it helped.

On Wed, 23 Feb 2005 09:58:06 -0700, Luigi Zanasi wrote (in article ):

Current issue Fine Woodworking. A router jig to flush trim plywood edging.

ah.. a profile... I missed that part....

Bridge, I hate you. After years of trying to balance routers on an edge, trying to build wider "platforms" & clamping them on, buying a trim router thinking it would help, planing off the veneer with a block plane, trying to trim large panels on the router table, you had to come up with this!

Since nobody has mentioned it yet... Always do mutliple passes....much safer. Mark

passes......

neener neener!

So where are the free plans?

;-)