I am wondering what are some of the most important features that you look for in a router table?
My second question is, if you could make any improvements to the current router table systems that are on the market right now, what would they be?
I am wondering what are some of the most important features that you look for in a router table?
My second question is, if you could make any improvements to the current router table systems that are on the market right now, what would they be?
good dust collection big enough table sturdy fence with split faces
There are any number of systems out there that would be great....but they're all more expensive than I was willing to pay.
I made mine out of MDF, plywood, some free laminate, 2x4s, chipboard, and some T-track and cam levers. Works very nicely, has held up for several years now.
Chris
Pat has already provided a lot of good info, and I can't add many technical details to that. But very briefly, IMO the priorities are:
Just my thoughts - not an exhaustive list. Hope this helps, Andy
"Granitebear" wrote
I just finished this and, at some point I expect to build my own top.
With the acquisition of the Milwaukee 5625-20
Max
It appears that soemthing went awry with those URLs so I'll try again.
A couple of years back I built a router table based on Pat Warner design. Best router table I ever had plus I've learnt a bit while building it.
The most important features? - sturdy and flat top. I have a 3.5 HP fixed base router hanging under with no problems. Add a good fence and you are in business!
regards, alexM
The right height for me, an easily adjustable split fence with easily made replacement faces, and a flat top. I didn't bother with a lift, but I understand why lots of folks buy them.
I simply built my own with a 1 1/2" laminated both sides MDF top, which sits on an MDF box.
I'll pay big bucks for tools, but as a Frid-esque type of guy, I find a lot of store bought router tables to be rather overpriced.
Have any of you tried the MLCS cast iron top?
It looks interesting, especially for owners of magnetic attachements, but I wonder about the flatness.
My router table is home made from birch ply covered by mdf and then formica. MDF is smoother than plywood so I get a smoother top. The plywood under the MDF keeps the table from sagging. I had to thicken it up because it's an extension to my table saw. I have an insert from Wood Peck's and a DeWalt 625 router that I picked up from the pawn shop for $80. The insert was a couple hundred. I made my own split fence with removable inserts. I would probably want to improve on any type of fence system that I bought anyway...
I've made good use of the large table by routing oversized plywood sheets (up to 4' in length) so I would suggest making sure your table is sized to the kind of work you do. My only disappointment with the current setup is that I was unable to get a 100% flat surface when I put on the formica. The glue puddled up in some areas and I have a couple of bumps under it. They're not in a critical area but they're still annoying. It may have been caused by old glue or my piss poor application of it. I like the formica as a work surface. Mine has a fine texture that makes it easy to move wood across it.
I made a NYW base and spent the money on a phonalic (sp) top, lift, large router, and micro adjust fence (jointtec). Being enclosed gives better noise reduction and dust contol from both the box and the fence is great.
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