router table top - design questions

[Chris Carruth]

OK, I am 80% done with a nice router table, using (2) 3/4" glued up mdf slabs for top, laminated on both sides with countertop laminate. Size = 20 x

1. Cabinet has plenty of support to mitigate any sag.

Center of router plate is roughly 8" from front of top. Note I am not a production shop, do not need .0001" precision, and can afford to take some extra time regarding setup and teardown.

Questions:

1) Placement of miter slot (how far from front edge, should it be length of table, any use for slots running on both sides of router, perpendicular to router, etc) 2) Type (mfgr, width, etc) 3) Miter bar itself - adjustable , non-adjustable, pitfalls, etc.

I would love to have a miter gauge that is interchangeable between bandsaw, router, table saw, etc. (do not have a table saw, just thinking of the future).

Thanks group for your help and advice..

[J T]

Mon, Aug 2, 2004, 3:43am (EDT+4) [e-mail] (Chris=A0Carruth) has: Questions:

1) Placement of miter slot (how far from front edge,

Dunno, but I would think along one side myself. At least, that's where I think I would prefer one. Actually, if I was gonna do that, I'd probably have one on each side.

should it be length of table,

Well, it makes sense to me.

any use for slots running on both sides of router,

See above.

perpendicular to router, etc)

You don't have a fixed blade, like a table saw, so, I would think not. On the other hand, I don't have miter slots in my router table, and probably never will.

JOAT The highway of fear is the road to defeat.

- Bazooka Joe JERUSALEM RIDGE

[B a r r y]

Length of table, I put it where it looked right, and have never regretted it.

I honestly don't remember, but it holds a standard bar.

I use the same miter devices as my table saw.

Barry

[Liam]

My advice is forget the miter slot. I sometime use a miter slot for a featherboard but I could clamp that if it wasn't on the table.

[Gary]

I've found a good square piece of mdf, say 3/4 x 12 x 12, run along the fence behind the board I'm routing, works just fine for me. Also backs up the cut, reducing tearout. I believe I saw Norm doing this once. OTOH, if I were doing cope and stick doors, I'd have the miter slot, plus a miter gauge with a hold down, or build an equivalent jig.