Wanting to move beyond the limitations of my old Craftsman tabletop
router table and my trusty PC 690 router, I am looking to move up to a
more substantial router and table. I'd like to put a new router in the
33" wide right-side table extension of my contractor table saw. I
think that the experience of the helpful wReck-ers in this group might
1. What are folks experience with this strategy vs. a separate router
table? Does the dual use of the table extension real estate cause any
significant conflicts or PITA restrictions? My shop, like many others
is a bit crowded.
2. Does the existing 3/4" particle board need to be reinforced, like
with another 3/4" layer of MDF?
3. I am looking at two router strategies:
a. Milwaukee 6525-20 router with a Woodpeckers aluminum router table
b. PC 7518 router with a router lift (Woodpeckers Precision Router
Lift, Jessem Mast-R-Lift)
On item 2., I'm leaning toward the Milwaukee+plate vs. the PC+lift. My
reasoning is that the Milwaukee seems to be a somewhat better table
router and already has top surface adjustment capability. I am hoping
to avoid going under the table for bit replacement by using offset
wrenches from the top. Will this work? This option is a lot less
Does anyone have experience with any of these options that they'd like
Thanks for the help.
I have no experience with either of the router/plate combinations you
listed, but, as far as the table extension, I built mine a few months ago
and absolutly love it. I have a Delta Contractors saw and added a Vega 50
inch fence, I made my table from the 1/2" laminated particale board that is
laminated on both sides. I doubled it up and used biscuts and glue to
assemble it. Trimmed with some maple i had laying around and installed a
PC690 on a basic aluminium Rockler plate. I made a home made fence cover
with adjustable wings and it works great.
Hell, yes. I've got what I think is the most tricked out contractor's saw on
the planet. Ridgid would be very surprised to see how much crap I've added to
their original TS-2424.
I added a PC 7518 to an extension wing on the left side of my saw. Although the
manufacturer of the extension recommended inserting it in the place of the
original cast iron wing, I chose to add it on to the outside of the original
iron wing instead, effectively adding significant size to the saw. Looking back
at it, I'd do it again in a heartbeat. There is no sag that I can see. When I
want to cut something wide, I just remove the router's fence and drop the router
bit down below the surface. It only takes a moment.
I'm using a Jessem Mast-R-Lift to raise the router up and down from the top. It
I added an overhead guard/ dust collector from Penn State to the other side of
the saw, then decided the vertical support was getting in the way when I
crosscut panels bigger than 2'. The solution was I constructed another wing out
of oak and melamine laminated plywood and bolted it to my right hand wing, then
rebolted the vertical support for the overhead guard. Now I have another 20" to
work with on the right side as well, making it symetrical. No sag on the right
Oh, yeah.... I have an outfeed table bolted on the back of the saw with a hinged
joint just outboard of the saw's motor, so it can fold out of the way when I
don't need the space, which is essentially never. It's always being used.
I'll post a picture of the monstosity in APBW.
I've mounted my 3hp Makita 3613BR in the wing of my contractor's tablesaw to
cut the rail and stiles when I was making some kitchen cabinets for my
mother. The wings on my tablesaw are cast iron so there was no problem
supporting the router. I did have to spend a great deal of time and effort
with a metal cut off disk mounted in an electric drill to cut through the
wing and grind away some of the support structures of the wing to make room
for the router.
It worked fine with blocks of maple screwed to my ordinary tablesaw fence as
When I bought my Powermatic 64A, I ordered it with the router/lift built
into the extension. It was alright but when I added my overhead blade
guard, it wiped out any chance of using it so I built my own router table.
I like it much better separated from the table saw.
I think no matter what you end up with, you'll always think there is a
better way of doing it.
==============================Without reading the other replies I wanted to add my 2 cents worth....
Yes I have a router installed in my table saws wing....have for years.
I also have a stand alone Benchdog table, a stand alone Pin Router
table and a stand alone horizontial table... all BTW have routers
installed and dedicated to them...
I almost NEVER use the tablesaw mounted router...its just too low
to use ... lets say its more a pain in the back then in the a$$ ...
Its one advantage is it does save space...but even in my little 24x24
foot shop I prefer stand alone units...
Can't offer any advice on routers...(I use little dewalt 610's )in all
the tables ....when I abbsolutely need a monster router I will install
My PC in the benchdog... but to be honest the little 1 Hp 610's handle
95 percent of my needs just fine...
I see no real need to empty my wallet on any router lifter ..sorry but
adjusting any of my routers is just not difficult or time
Just my opinion.
I'll start by saying that my needs are simple, and I'm a novice router
user. I needed to make rails and stiles for shutters, as well as
moulding for the framing of the shutters, which required the use of a
smaller panel raising bit. Not only is my available space limited, it's
likely that it will be months between projects so I didn't want a
Based on these considerations, I went with the extension wing approach,
deciding to build a very simple "one time use" table with the
expectation that I would learn alot in the process of building and
using it and would want to later use the new knowledge and skills to
build a better on that would be permanent.
I "laminated" two pieces of 3/4" MDF (actually just screwed 'em
together) after rabbeting the top piece to overhang the fence rails
such that the top was flush with the tablesaw surface. The bottom piece
matches the rabbeted dimmension and completely fits between the rails.
THis seems quite stiff, but in the final version I'll probably glue
some strengthening ribs underneath because I'm getting a tiny bit of
sag (barely noticeable now, but time will tell if it gets worse).
For the fence, I used MDF for sacrifial material on the "off" side of
the tablesaw fence and cut T-Slots for featherboards etc.
I posted about this in the past. For more detail, DAGS in the rec on
"Stoopid" Simple Router Table.
Since then, my needs grew to require a mitre slot which was easily
added with by leaving the table in place and using a separate router
with the fence as a guide.
I'm extremely pleased with it's operation using a PC890 router which I
selected primarily because of the ability to set the bit height from
above the table. That's fairly handy, but most of the time I find that
it's just as easy to reach under the table. I have a Rockler plate on
the shelf thats's waiting for the next generation of the table. I'm not
motivated to install it because the current setup is working fine.
I installed a Bosch router station on my delta contractor saw. It is
mounted on the right, next to the delta extension. A 3 hp ryobi RE600
router is hanging from it. Makes for a very stable router table with
a nice stable fence.
I use a 3HP PC router under the plywood extension for my UniSaw. Just
bolted the base under it (recessed the bolt heads of course.) Used a
stiffback in close proximity to the router and did not double the ply
which would have limited the bit projection through the table. Metal or
plastic sub base insert might be better but I didn't have one. Have used
this setup for years and have no complaints.
I have a separate router table. I purchased the router top from
Woodpeckers, and also the Incra fence, Woodpeckers aluminium plate and
precision lift. The weight of this seems fine with the 11/4in MDF table
thickness. I would be concerned using 3/4in MDF since the plate requires a
1/4in groove, which would mean only 1/2in thick at the point of greatest
I cannot imagine going back to the days before the Incra fence. I expect
the Jointech would have given me the same feeling. I can get exact
placement of the fence, and exactly repeatable placement without any
problems. Changing fence distance is now a joy.
I would hate to put my arrangement in the wing extension of my table saw, if
it meant I could only use the Bies. fence, which does fine on the tablesaw.
If your space is constrained, you may have no choice, but I have been very
happy to have a dedicated router table. A side benefit is that I am able to
leave the last bit in the table at the last height.
If my router was in the table extension, I would have to drop the router for
some of my saw cuts. This is not a problem with the precision lift, but it
is nice if I can avoid having to spend the time.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.