I've seen router lifts in saw tables and am considering pulling my
lift out of my router table and dropping it into the saw's extension
table. I could really use the floor space and as I see it the saw has
a much better fence than any I could put on the router table.
Any idea how to set up a lift in a MDF table? I have it in a table
now but the leveling screw dig into the MDF making adjustment
difficult. Should I insert some angle iron or some such in the table?
The top's going to get pretty thin inlaying both the lift and a piece
of angle iron.
make the routerlift hole go all the way through the table then screw straight
irons around and overlapping the edge of the hole, underneath, to make a
perimeter shelf. Drill down into the shelf through your existing routerplate
holes then tap the holes to take 3 or 4mm socket head screws. You can then
adjust level by going through the holes with a hex key, take the lift off and
run a nut up or down the screw (while holding it on the key) to lock it.
You probably only need the corners supporting, so take an "L" bracket for
each corner and screw it so the outside of the corner protrudes into the
corner of your hole, with the arms of the "L" pointing away from the hole and
giving you lots of area to screw up to the underside of the table.
Add a couple more midway along the long side if you wish.
You might want to file off the sharp corner to protect your hands from the
I'm sure you know this, but just about every TS fence I've seen has had
provisions for a semi-permanent sacrificial fence to be attached. All
the OP would need is a suitable material such as a good dry hardwood or
Just be aware that if you want to use a large bit you might need to
install a really thick sacrificial fence.
"The potential difference between the top and bottom of a tree is the
reason why all trees have to be grounded..." -- Bored Borg on
Exactly, I have a secondary router table in my tablesaw and it uses a
dedicated router fence, complete with split face, that fastens to the
tablesaw fence. I really don't see how you could get the full range of
router table functionality with just a straight fence and no opening for
I purchased a 30X60X1-1/2 thick laminated maple top from Woodcraft ($185
+/- with the 15% off). Had to rip it to 27 inch width to fit between the
rails of my JET contractor saw and put a couple of legs under it (with some
threaded-stemmed feet I'd been saving for about 20 years off what I can't
remember now). I end drilled the legs and epoxied a nut into each hole for
the stems to thread into. Makes it easy to level.
I used my Woodhaven router plate as a template and cut a through hole
about a half inch undersized all the way around. Then I set a straight bit
to just slightly more than the depth of the plate and carefully free-handed
a ledge for the plate to sit on. Some small flat head screws in the corners
of the ledge allow for depth adjustment for the plate to sit flush.
Dave in Houston
Sorry, a bit fast on the trigger
Pat Warner's site is an excellent read and full of sage advice that you
can adapt to mounting a router in your tablesaw. I did it a few years
back after building the fence Pat designed and described in an article
he did for FWW.
The page above shows the version of the fence I built from Pat's
plans - and I still use it today. I have a 52" Jet cabinet saw and
mounted the router and fence at the very end with just enough room for
the fence. I mounted a Jessem Router Lift and have not considered
changing a thing since I installed everything. With the full table to
the left and my outfeed table on the TS, I have a nice working area for
routing which comes in handy when doing the final touches on some long
cabinet door panels.
The fence Pat designed is rock solid and very well thought out. I see
on his home page http://www.patwarner.com/ he has a new version of
the fence which is a simpler design
http://www.patwarner.com/routerfence.html that should provide some
ideas for you to consider.
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