Circular saw recommendations?

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On 8/5/2011 10:27 PM, snipped-for-privacy@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz wrote:

Go for it. Mike turned me onto this recall notice too, and I'm glad I followed up on it. If your saw qualifies, all you gotta do is fill out a form and an impressive box of goodies shows up on your doorstep. The brand new table board itself is worth the effort it takes to apply for the recall.
--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
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On 8/5/11 11:04 PM, Steve Turner wrote:

Perv.
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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On 8/5/2011 11:19 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

Tease.
--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
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On 8/6/11 1:40 PM, Steve Turner wrote:

Bitch.
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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On 8/6/2011 2:26 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

Democrat.
--
"Our beer goes through thousands of quality Czechs every day."
(From a Shiner Bock billboard I saw in Austin some years ago)
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On 8/6/11 6:34 PM, Steve Turner wrote:

Hey, hey, hey!!! Geez, man... we were just razzing each other and you had to blow a fuse throw out the D word. wow. chill out, have a beer.
That's the last time I let you see me in tight pants.
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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On 8/6/2011 9:38 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

Sorry; maybe I did get a little carried away. :-)
--
"Our beer goes through thousands of quality Czechs every day."
(From a Shiner Bock billboard I saw in Austin some years ago)
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On Fri, 05 Aug 2011 22:27:31 -0500, " snipped-for-privacy@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz"

My RAS must be the same as yours. It also is the one the one they offer $100 for the motor. Like you, it is worth more than that to me. If I got rid of it, I'd have to spend $600+ to buy a SCMS to replace it. I use mine a lot more frequently than you do. ;^)
I could live without it, but it sure can be convenient to have along with the TS at times. I also have a couple muscle powered miter setups, but don't use those too often.
Regards, Roy
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Well, I also have the $600 SCMS (before that, a $100 HF). ;-) I'll plug the model number into the site -MIKE- linked and see. I'll take the freebie, if offered. ;-)

I'll set it up again when I get my shop finished. Though it'll probably be another year before I get it completely done, I should be able to start moving a few tools in later this fall. I don't care what Swing and Leon say, it's too damned hot to work out there this time of year. ;-) It probably averages a humid 140 during the day. :-(
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-MIKE- wrote the following:

I got the replacement table and guard for the Craftsman years ago. It's still in the box it came in, sitting next to the RAS.
--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
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On 8/6/11 3:48 PM, willshak wrote:

That was very helpful.
--

-MIKE-

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After several cheaper B&D circ saws I purchased a Porter Cable unit about ten years ago. It has seen a lot of hard use in that time and still going strong.
It has about a 10' rubber very flexible cord that hardly ever tangles, although heavier than I was used to it is very balanced and I can actually freeform cut straight with it! It has a blade to guide setback of exactly 1.5"...nice for cutting to fence. Very little vibration = good bearings Good chip direction via the 1" chip chute on top I am very impressed as well as people borrowing it.
I have never used another quality circ saw to compare with this.
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"Doug Miller" wrote in message My old faithful corded circular saw finally bit the dust yesterday. Something went Pop! and it stopped running. Disassembly today shows half a dozen segments missing from the commutator; the critical parts are no longer available (after 15+ years, that's no surprise), so it's time to buy a new one.
My uses are, I think, pretty typical: framing, building decks, cutting sheet goods to manageable size.
I'm looking for something that will last a good long time. The one that died is only the second one I've ever owned; the first one lasted nearly 20 years, and I'm hoping for similar durability. The budget is large enough to include Bosch, Makita, or Milwaukee, but not Festool.
I'm looking for general recommendations in two areas: a) corded vs. cordless -- my experiences with cordless circular saws have not been positive, but they've been cheap saws, and I'm willing to be persuaded that cordless circular saws that won't drain a battery in five seconds do actually exist; and b) left blade vs. right blade. Every circular saw that I've ever used has had the blade on the right. Advertising for left-blade saws includes phrases like "gives users the clearest line of sight for easy, accurate cutting" but I just don't see how it's really any different. I'm inclined to get a right-blade saw simply because that's what I'm used to, but if there truly are advantages to having the blade on the left, I'd be much obliged if someone would explain them to me. In case it makes a difference to the recommendation, I'm right-handed.
I'm also looking for recommendations of specific brands and/or models both to seek out, and to avoid. I intend to avoid tools made in China if at all possible.
TIA... Thanks may also be expressed tangibly, in the form of a cold homebrew or three, next time you pass through Indianapolis.
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"Doug Miller" wrote in message
My old faithful corded circular saw finally bit the dust yesterday. Something went Pop! and it stopped running. Disassembly today shows half a dozen segments missing from the commutator; the critical parts are no longer available (after 15+ years, that's no surprise), so it's time to buy a new one.
My uses are, I think, pretty typical: framing, building decks, cutting sheet goods to manageable size.
I'm looking for something that will last a good long time. The one that died is only the second one I've ever owned; the first one lasted nearly 20 years, and I'm hoping for similar durability. The budget is large enough to include Bosch, Makita, or Milwaukee, but not Festool. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I have had a standard right blade Milwaukee on the job for just about every work day since 1982. I have never done anything to it but replace switches and cords. Not even ever re-greased the gearbox. You have my recommendation. It is probably the heaviest saw, but the toughest, and has the best torque for ripping of any I have used. Oh, this is for a corded model.
-- Jim in NC
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Doug Miller wrote:

-----------
Judging from the replies, everybody pretty much likes what they have.
Therefore, one conclusion is get the saw that has the most attractive paint job - you'll get used to it.
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If I didn't I would buy something else. ...and have.

It's more than paint.
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wrote:

anything avalable today is. About 10 years or so ago I took out the armature on the delta cutting aluminum - I had a choice - something like $120 for a new armature, of $69 for a new cheap saw. I'm sure I made the right choice, because I still have that saw. The cheap $69 saw would have been in the dump long ago.
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On Mon, 08 Aug 2011 21:18:21 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

Why were there only the two choices you mentioned?
I would have taken the $120 and bought a new decent saw rather the a new cheap saw. Metal casings can be a shock hazard.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
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the part - and a metal housing saw, with a properly grounded cord, is no more of a shock danger than a cheap plastic saw. A GOOD plastic saw isn't much better. The BIGGEST shock danger with ANY saw is cutting the cord.
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On Aug 4, 10:36pm, snipped-for-privacy@example.com (Doug Miller) wrote:

Some years ago (20+), I ran across a Worm Drive Saw at the Sears Outlet Store for a decent price (Maybe $69.00?). I'd never owned nor used one before and I've never bothered with my old circular saws since. It's always my first choice for framing, decking, etc. I put an 18-tooth blade on it to rip 2x6 girders out of some "cull" lumber 2x12's to build my new deck and, how do they say "like buddah!"
Of course Sears didn't make the saw. Looks just like the Milwaukee of the era. I suspect there are not too many manufacturers of this beast as all I've seen look pretty similar.
My two cents
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