I have the PC743 (blade left) which I've used the hell out of and it just
keeps on ticking. I think it's been discontinued though. Seeing the blade
and the cut line is nice but the sawdust that gets thrown in my face will make
me opt for a blade right next time.
Oh hell yeah! The track saw coupled with a vac means you have to look
for saw dust after ripping a sheet of plywood. Not to mention you only
align the saw up on top of the track, no guess work as to where the saw
is going to cut once the track is placed.
It works good at turning s2s lumber into s2s1e also, faster than using a
jointer on long pieces.
...it definitely is. That said, I still use my Skilsaw 77 quite a bit
for heavy work in the field...just never needed anything else. The
weight is helpful in many situations, power is spectacular, and I don't
mind getting sawdust blown back in my face...or maybe I just haven't
noticed...or I've put my face in the position necessary to avoid it. ;9
Got an 18VDC circular saw as part of a kit.
15 years and a couple of batteries later, that saw doesn't owe me
Primary use was to break down sheet goods and trim 2x4s.
Built a boat with it.
I'll never have another corded saw.
At one time PC had my eye but today If I were to buy another it would be
the Makita. I own a few Bosch tools but have never been impressed
enough to say I would buy them again, 2 routers and an impact driver.
Milwaukee also had my attention long before complaints about a drop in
quality. FWIW I am around construction sites on a pretty regular basis
and the Makita seems to be the favorite.
IMHO cordless is going to be good if you have no plan to ever use the
saw but it would be handy to have if that was all you had to make a cut.
Not saying that it cannot perform a task but it is never ever going to
be able to keep up with the cheapest of corded saws. I would never buy
one unless I had a specific need that required a cordless saw.
It seems to be a forgotten thing but most saws have the blade on the
right side and were intended to be held with a right handers right hand.
Left sides saws were made available for the south paws. This all
evolved around safety and where you should be standing when operating
the saw. Typically the intent was that the saw body was between you and
the blade. This position also helps to keep a large amount of saw dust
from being thrown back at you. Safety aside the left sided models have
become more popular with right handers because they can see the blade
and the line they want to follow. That does not mean they are using the
correct saw, just that they want to see the spinning blade while it is
cutting. Every saw I have seen and or used has a cut line indicator on
the front of the shoe to give you that information. Once you have used
the saw enough and correctly and as you have indicated for you
personally you become comfortable and proficient with using the
indicator rather than watching the blade. I will never buy a left sides
saw, I am right handed. There are exception's some saws only come with
the left side blade, take the Skil 77 as an example.
Well look closely at your choices as many top brand tools are being
manufactured in China these days.
I have never had a left hand bladed C saw. First, I didn't know they
existed before some comments made in this, or some other home or
I do have a very old Skilsaw wormdrive saw that belonged to my FiL, now
deceased. The saw has been languishing in a dark corner of my garage for
It has some missing parts related to safety and I never used it or even
turned it on, besides, it is a monster and heavy. Looking at it just
now, I see it is left bladed.
I too am right handed, and I can see some benefit to having a saw with a
left handed blade, especially the "gives users the clearest line of
sight for easy, accurate cutting" part. Another I would think would be a
Holding a piece of wood steady, whether fenced or unfenced with the left
hand, then cutting on the other side of the right hand bladed saw
requires that your head is also on the right side of the saw to aim the
cut leaving the left hand in your peripheral vision and could be in the
way of the motor side as it saws. I like the idea that the holding,
aiming, and cutting, is on the same side of the saw. I guess left handed
people already are doing this with the right handed blade saws.
Why are most, if not all, radial arm saws left bladed?
Just my opinion, YMMV.
It "sounds" logical and like a good idea, it is not. Most all power
tools come with some kind of warning to not bend over or align you eyes
directly with the cutting edge of the blade. bit, what ever. The
"common" circular saw is not a precision tool. Although skilled and
long time users can do wonders with circular saw it is a developed
skill. The intent by the manufacturer is for you use the alignment mark
at the front of the shoe to line up your saw and then start the saw and
make the cut with your head and eyes on the opposite side of the blade.
Yes your cut is probably not going to be square or a straight line.
This is a free hand tool and practice makes perfect.
The RAS is a different set up altogether. While a circular saw's blade
rotation directs the debris back behind the saw, in your direction, the
RAS directs the debris away from the operator. Same with miter saws.
That said when ripping with a RAS the debris comes back at the operator
however the guard should be rotated down on the back side of the blade
to divert the debris, and prevent kickback providing you are using the
splitter and anti kick back pawls.
The guard on my old (30 years) crapsman rotates to the front to hold down the
board against kickback. The pawls and splitter rotate down from the rear of
the guard. The guard doesn't do squat for flying sawdust.
Didn't know about the new guard and table. I'll look into it but how does a
guard cover the entire blade? I knew about the $100 for the return of the
motor but even though I haven't used the thing in 15 years, it's worth more to
me than the $100. ;-)
On 8/5/11 11:43 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
No, it's doesn't catch. I guess if your fence is higher than normal, it
may, but there's also a lift on the handle, to lift it for whatever
reason, including that.
As for the hinges, remember that a RAS also rips. Most guys don't do
this and think it's dangerous. I've ripped a lot with mine and it's no
more dangerous than on a table saw, when done correctly.
FWIW, when end cutting narrow stock, I often pull the saw out, set my
board, then cut on the push stroke to avoid that forward push sensation
of a RAS. I also use a blade with a negative hook angle to lessen that.
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
Thnaks. I ordered the "kit" for my saw (113.19771). It implies that the
"kit" contains a guard and table. The site said it would take 8-10 weeks to
get here. Since it was some time before 1993 (we moved that year and I never
put it back together) when I last used it, I think I can wait. ;-)
It's perfectly safe, when done correctly. ;-) I'm one of the "most guys",
though I have ripped a *lot* with it, too. I didn't set it up after the move,
primarily because I didn't like ripping on it. Not that I have a table saw,
that's not an issue.
The issue I have is on the other side of the blade. With a TS my hands are
never on the back side when power is on. I suppose one can do the same with a
RAS, but it's awkward. OTOH, I never stood in the line of fire when using the
RAS. With a TS it's a little more difficult to stand completely aside.
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