Circular saw recommendations?

How long would it have taken if you didn't have to wait for the batteries to charge? :)

I bought it to cut sheets down to size. I'm not a pro and don't do multiple sheets at a time, so didn't think I needed the TS75.

AFAIC, the electronics VS is useless. It doesn't have enough power to use it other than flat-out. Don't get me wrong, I love the way it cuts, I just expected a lot more power from an expensive tool.

Nothing fancy, 3/4" (23/32") Oak/Birch veneer ply; Lowes style. It cuts it, but not like I expect. I don't expect the RPM to vary at all.

I understand. ;-) I had a scrap to cut and just didn't want to get out the other saw. It barely made it through the 2x.

Thanks. See my reply to Leon. It cuts but with no "authority" at all. It's like it's not cutting straight, but it can't be since it's on the track.

Good idea. Thanks! I was considering getting one of the stores to demo a new one. Highland has a setup that looks like it's used frequently. Next time I'm up there...

The guard on my old (30 years) crapsman rotates to the front to hold down the board against kickback. The pawls and splitter rotate down from the rear of the guard. The guard doesn't do squat for flying sawdust.

Did you look into getting the free replacement table and guard?

After several cheaper B&D circ saws I purchased a Porter Cable unit about ten years ago. It has seen a lot of hard use in that time and still going strong.

It has about a 10' rubber very flexible cord that hardly ever tangles, although heavier than I was used to it is very balanced and I can actually freeform cut straight with it! It has a blade to guide setback of exactly 1.5"...nice for cutting to fence. Very little vibration = good bearings Good chip direction via the 1" chip chute on top I am very impressed as well as people borrowing it.

I have never used another quality circ saw to compare with this.

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My uses are, I think, pretty typical: framing, building decks, cutting sheet goods to manageable size.

I'm looking for something that will last a good long time. The one that died is only the second one I've ever owned; the first one lasted nearly 20 years, and I'm hoping for similar durability. The budget is large enough to include Bosch, Makita, or Milwaukee, but not Festool.

I'm looking for general recommendations in two areas: a) corded vs. cordless -- my experiences with cordless circular saws have not been positive, but they've been cheap saws, and I'm willing to be persuaded that cordless circular saws that won't drain a battery in five seconds do actually exist; and b) left blade vs. right blade. Every circular saw that I've ever used has had the blade on the right. Advertising for left-blade saws includes phrases like "gives users the clearest line of sight for easy, accurate cutting" but I just don't see how it's really any different. I'm inclined to get a right-blade saw simply because that's what I'm used to, but if there truly are advantages to having the blade on the left, I'd be much obliged if someone would explain them to me. In case it makes a difference to the recommendation, I'm right-handed.

I'm also looking for recommendations of specific brands and/or models both to seek out, and to avoid. I intend to avoid tools made in China if at all possible.

TIA... Thanks may also be expressed tangibly, in the form of a cold homebrew or three, next time you pass through Indianapolis.

guard cover the entire blade? I knew about the $100 for the return of the motor but even though I haven't used the thing in 15 years, it's worth more to me than the $100. ;-)

Go for it. Mike turned me onto this recall notice too, and I'm glad I followed up on it. If your saw qualifies, all you gotta do is fill out a form and an impressive box of goodies shows up on your doorstep. The brand new table board itself is worth the effort it takes to apply for the recall.

Perv.

Thanks, but it looks backwards. Doesn't the front-bottom of the guard catch on the wood/fence when it's pulled across it? It also looks like the hinges are backwards, or set up to cut on the push.

No, it's doesn't catch. I guess if your fence is higher than normal, it may, but there's also a lift on the handle, to lift it for whatever reason, including that.

As for the hinges, remember that a RAS also rips. Most guys don't do this and think it's dangerous. I've ripped a lot with mine and it's no more dangerous than on a table saw, when done correctly.

FWIW, when end cutting narrow stock, I often pull the saw out, set my board, then cut on the push stroke to avoid that forward push sensation of a RAS. I also use a blade with a negative hook angle to lessen that.

Well I generally don't cut stacked sheets either but we did on that occasion. I was strongly considering the TS55 over the TS75 but knew that I was going to end up with both the 75 &55 inch tracks sooner than later. As you know, the 75 comes with the TS75, the 55 comes with the TS55. I determined that that buying the TS75 which came with the 75 track and buying the 55 track alone, there much less of a total price difference then buying the other way around. So for me the ultimate price difference, purchased the way I did, closed the price gap considerably and I knew the extra power and capacity would one day be an advantage. All things being equal I'd probably have gone with the TS55.

Even on the TS75 I use it at full speed so I could not attest to the effectiveness of the EVS. I do know that the EVS works really well on my Rotex125. Regardless of the speed setting coupled with different grit papers and or pressure applied the motor does not ever seem to deviate in speed.

I would certainly think that whould not be a challenge. I would certainly confirm my suppositions directly with the Festool company reps. They are pretty darn eager to help, they have a reputation to uphold. :-) You should be very satisfied with your purchase.

...it definitely is. That said, I still use my Skilsaw 77 quite a bit for heavy work in the field...just never needed anything else. The weight is helpful in many situations, power is spectacular, and I don't mind getting sawdust blown back in my face...or maybe I just haven't noticed...or I've put my face in the position necessary to avoid it. ;9

cg

I considered that angle. I bought the thing last(?) summer when Festool had the "big" sale. I didn't know if I would use the 75" rail (but I want the

Thinking about it last night, I think I'll put a current/power meter on it and see if it's really taking all the power it should be when loaded.

I don't know if "challenge" is the right word. It cuts but it will bog down if I put any pressure on it. It cuts a lot slower than I expected. I'll contact Festool. Thanks for the information.

My RAS must be the same as yours. It also is the one the one they offer $100 for the motor. Like you, it is worth more than that to me. If I got rid of it, I'd have to spend $600+ to buy a SCMS to replace it. I use mine a lot more frequently than you do. ;^)

I could live without it, but it sure can be convenient to have along with the TS at times. I also have a couple muscle powered miter setups, but don't use those too often.

Regards, Roy

Well, I also have the $600 SCMS (before that, a $100 HF). ;-) I'll plug the model number into the site -MIKE- linked and see. I'll take the freebie, if offered. ;-)

I'll set it up again when I get my shop finished. Though it'll probably be another year before I get it completely done, I should be able to start moving a few tools in later this fall. I don't care what Swing and Leon say, it's too damned hot to work out there this time of year. ;-) It probably averages a humid 140 during the day. :-(

Tease.

Bitch.