If no mistakes are ever made, *all* tools are safe.
See above.
If no mistakes are ever made, *all* tools are safe.
See above.
--------------------------------- And here I thought I was the only one who pulled that trick.
Great minds run in the same gutter
Lew
Sure got me to clean out my pants!
GMAFB! The wood didn't move 1/16" THE CARRIAGE JUMPED!
Good grief. The wood is tight against the fence.
No. I didn't.
Which is why I still have all my fingers.
If I didn't I would buy something else. ...and have.
It's more than paint.
Now there is two or more of us Lew. ;~)
On 8/8/2011 3:48 PM, Leon wrote: ...
no, No, NO!!!
Like a TS, a good RAS setup is in a table providing infeed and outfeed support.
You'll play hell doing full-size 2+X hardwoods of large sizes even on the TS simply for the effort of pushing the material even if do have support.
Now, no everybody does large architectural work but that's what I did mostly and the TS was not the tool of choice for much simply because moving the material was harder than moving the tool by far...it's also why I have a 16"-er. (It's also why most of the original work in the old mansions used to refurb was able to be done--hand tools move on large surfaces, not the other way 'round.)
--
On 8/8/2011 4:04 PM, Robatoy wrote: ...
Rob, generally I'll agree w/ you but you're just wrong here...
The RAS isn't nothin' compared to a 1" or larger spindle shaper as to what you can do to yourself and how quickly, but they're also in many large shops.
It is, like anything else, an acquired skill and a comfort level comes w/ that skill and experience.
There's nothing about knots or other things in lumber in a heavy RAS w/ sufficient power to fret over; they simply don't know they exist for the most part.
The problems of small and under-powered are of note but it's the limitations of the implementation of the device not the device itself that's the problem there.
--
"A", sure...do 8 or 10 at a time and it's not as much of a slam dunk... :)
On 8/8/2011 6:15 PM, snipped-for-privacy@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz wrote: ...
Prolly needed it anyway... :)
The RAS I have is powerful enough to just keep on trucking--I've never been able to feed it anything that even gives it a moment's pause. That includes large old oak and SYP timbers from antebellum houses or other reclaimed industrial buildings and so on that is some hard stuff...
Why would you have your fingers in line with the blade - or even near in line?
Why do people lose fingers?
After, sure. ;-)
I've never had problems with hardwoods, only soft. As I said in another post, I was making fence pickets out of rough sawn (white/green?) cedar 1x. It still surprises me that it took off like that. I had a couple of kicks ripping on the thing, too, but those weren't nearly as exciting.
Roller infeed support or a 8+ foot infeed table is REQUIRED for any kind of accuracy on a RAS.
A sliding table cabinet saw is the most accurate for squaring stock.
Any RAS other than a "professional" model is a waste of time and energy. A good one is (or can be) worth it's weight in gold.
My old Milwaukee and my old Delta are both twice the saw virtually anything avalable today is. About 10 years or so ago I took out the armature on the delta cutting aluminum - I had a choice - something like $120 for a new armature, of $69 for a new cheap saw. I'm sure I made the right choice, because I still have that saw. The cheap $69 saw would have been in the dump long ago.
On 8/8/2011 8:12 PM, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote: ...
Troo-dat... :)
--
On 8/8/2011 8:03 PM, snipped-for-privacy@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz wrote: ...
Indeed, the softer the material, the more likely for the blade to want to accelerate.
Learning that and the touch to know how much to hold against is an acquired skill.
It's a case where an under-powered saw is worse than a big 'un, too...mine will just zip right on thru w/ a rough cut at that speed but it won't bog down; the smaller ones are the ones that can choke if let them get ahead of themselves.
I still say it isn't particularly dangerous--a little of a surprise, sure, and a screwed up workpiece maybe, but unless the saw is a _real_ POS, it'll just wedge and generally stall and pop a breaker.
The access problem is why I don't rip narrow stock on the RAS unless it is too long for my TS setup I may make a rare exception, but w/ large enough pieces that have easy enough clearance to push it thru, I much prefer ripping because I've got the long in/ and outfeed tables specifically to handle the material w/o ever having to do anything but slide it along the fence.
You _are_, I presume, feeding against the rotation and not trying to do an the equivalent of a climb-cutting operation w/ a router???? Trying that _WILL_ get you, indeed... :(
--
Well, actually it is. 10 of them lined up on a 2x4 beats manhandling 10 of them into and out of the shop and onto and off of the saw.
In fact for 10 I'd probably clamp 'em together then use my sheet-goods jig.
I never, ever had any luck making a square cut on a vertical 4x4 until I learned the speed square method. Slap-in-the-head time.
Such a simple concept, such a rich reward!
-- I merely took the energy it takes to pout and wrote some blues. --Duke Ellington
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.