Popping over from alt.home.repair...
Anyone out there have any suggestions on installing crown moulding that is
'built-up' from various pieces of moulding?
Better to 'build-up' the moulding before installing? or vice versa?
Additionally, (for my specific application - above kitchen wall cabinets)
I'll need to use blocking. Better to install the blocking to the cabinets
before installation or after (with or without the crown moulding)?
FWIW - The crown moulding will abut both the cabinet and ceiling. Prolly a
'gap' of ~2". IMO not enough room to affix the blocking once cabinets are
installed. My line of thought leads me to believe that the blocking will
have to be individual pieces equaling the width of the cabinet...
Suggestions cheerfully accepted.
Computer recommends - Hard drinking calypso poet
I should know that, but I don't. I was in my late 20's when my mother
re-married and my stepfather was a contractor that studied architecture in
Vienna, worked on some high end mansions. etc. When he was older and could
not do any more work, a few people would pay to have a driver pick him up,
bring them to their house and watch over a finish carpenter to get the
moldings the way they should be.
He offered to teach me everything he knew. Did I care? Nah, I was too busy
with job and family. Damn, was I stupid to pass that up!
Build up as you go. This way you'll minimize the
joints/they will be off set from one piece to the next. You
can also screw the sub-pieces (where they will be covered
later) to the wall, get them real snug and then use them for
grounds (backing) for your final piece(s) which can then be
finish nailed (in the creases of the molding by the way).
You could go either way with this. I would hold a
continuous strip of blocking down from the ceiling 1/4"(ish)
in case your ceiling runs out (slopes). Shims can be used
to set the piece snug and use a nail or two here and there
yo hold it in place. Anyways, it's always good to survey
the room first, find the low spots and use them as your
elevation (height) datum. Nothing worse than finding this
out at the end of a run of cabinets.
Don't Ask Me How I Know This.
By the way, for wide (8" to 24") room crown we typically
build an L with the ends of each leg at an angle (angel in
wreskspeak) to match the back of the crown. These are then
cut to 12"(ish) long pieces and located as required around
the room. This way you can shift one or two to miss bumps
and bows in the walls.
A full length strip attached to the ceiling above the
cabinet (with a gap below) and set out the distance required
for the crown (in this case it's prolly a bed mold) would
work, unless I'm missing the point? I would make these in
as long a pieces as possible otherwise you are up there
aligning wood that was once aligned in the first place. You
can also attach through the cabinet tops with finish nails.
(see above for shimming info)
I installed a 7-layer crown in my foyer. It was not an easy task as
part of the foyer is 14-foot high. I layered parts in the shop, so
that I had 4 layers to install in the foyer. Each layer I went the
opposite direction (counter-clockwise, the clockwise). I primed and
painted before installing, then painted again after the install. I
would install the blocking before (and separately) the crown.
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