Anyone sprinkler system pros out there?

[Evan Mann]

Looking to revamp the control/valve setup on my sprinkler system, anyone out there who could provide some advice? Would like to see if anyone is before I post the situation.

Thanks

[HomeBrewer]

I've redone mine but it was a simple timer, manifold install. What info do you need?

[anonymous]

I run a golf course. what's up?

[Evan Mann]

For those that can help out, here goes.

First, it will be of great visual aid to check out these pictures:

Now, I have a 6 zone inground sprinkler system, it's old, but I don't know how old. The house is 23 years old now, possible it's that old? Anyway, it uses the above valve control unit. The system runs off my city water. The black piece above the shutoff valve is a hunter control unit that connects to a K-Rain Hydrotek 2114 timer unit.

The timer is very basis, you set the days you want it to work, the times, and put it into auto mode. I've never used it in auto made since I just today got all the pipes/heads fixed. The valve works in that for every time you turn it on/off, it changes a zone. I imagine in automode, the valve has a pre-set timer and it changes a zone. No idea how long each zone is, but I know it's > 8 minutes at least.

Anyways, I want to update my valve/control units to be more modern. Something where i can say run Zone 1-3 only, or turn on Zone 2 only. It's a PITA to have to turn this thin on/off 5 times to get to a particular zone, plus I can't easily water select areas of the lawn if they need more/less watering.

I'm CLUELESS about valves/controllers, so I'm looking for info on how I can make this more modern.

[anonymous]

from the looks of it the best thing to would be to build a new manifold and run six separate valves ,and while you're doing that might as well put it all underground. I look at that and think who's going to run into it and break it. any modern controller will do what you're asking for. I would join poly up to the pvc as the corners are a little easier to do. Any irrigation supply store should help you out on what you need.

[Evan Mann]

I'm not very familiar with valve/control units, but is it something as basic as I'd put 1 valve per zone pipe, and each valve has a control unit inside of it that opens/closes it? Then I'd have 6 separate sets of wires running back to the control unit?

[anonymous]

that's exactly what you need to do.each valve has a solenoid on top of it that's basicly a magnet when it is energized it pulls a plunger up that equalizes the pressure in the valve thus opening it .you already have one control valve on the supply line.The only way I can see you doing it without building a new manifold is to take the top of your k-rain timing unit off and there should be a cam inside that controls what line is supplied with water.remove it, put it back together and install control valves on each line going out to the zones,remove your main control valve glue a piece of pvc in so that water is supplied all the time to the lines.Helpfull hint,when gluing joints make sure pipe is clean turn it half a turn when inserting and wait the specified time before turning on the water, as a leaky joint can definitly ruin your day, also make sure there is a way you can take the valves off without cutting your pvc, I see they just glued the control valve on.great till it breaks.threaded control valves and a little teflon tape works great. I see that th e k-rain timer has an anti-siphon valve built into it, so you should probably get a backflow valve just to be on the safe side.Most solenoids run on 24 volts dc so any hunter/rainbird etc. timer should work.use the waterproof marrettes as a short can fry your controller pretty fast.Best of Luck

[anonymous]

I forget to send you this link it give you an idea what in you timing unit

[Evan Mann]

Thanks for the info. I think I'm going to remove the k-rain zone unit and controller and start fresh.

This sound somewhat like what should be done:

1) Remove k-rain controller and valve control unit from 6 zone supply lines 2) Remove Hunter valve (looks like an SCV). 3) Place a right andle on the water supply line 4) put a backflow device in place, maybe an inline filter too? 5) Build a manifold with 6 valve in a row, use thread on valves 6) Pipe each valve back down into the control units

Few questions I hav about this are:

-Should I use an inline filter if I'm using city water?

-How far apart should valve get spaced

-Insstead of having the valve float above the ground, I could have them sit in a box on top of the ground for more protection, but this means I've have

2 90degree turns off the supply line, and then 2 or 3 90degree turns to go into the zone pipe feeds. Would this be too much bending and restrict water pressure?

[anonymous]

shouldn't have to use one on city water

6 inches is good for access/repair

with pvc shouldn't be a problem

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[Evan Mann]

Thanks again for the assistance. I think I have one last question.. what valve would you recommend? The valve on the system currently is a Hunter PCV. I have Hunter PGP rotors and rainbird sprays. I've seen Hunter ICV's recommended but they are way to expensive for what I want to spend. I'm more at $20/valve range instead of $60-70.

The Irritol 2400 came recommended heavily as well.

What would you recommend for a c>

[anonymous]