I am installing a sprinkler system in my yard in Colorado. I am about
tie it into the main line under the house and run it out the
front and back of
the house. Is there anything special I should do
when going through the wall??
Dig down in the dirt 1 foot outside where I want it to come through.
hole through the brick, feed copper pipe out. Fill area around
silicone. Burry pipe.
It will definately freeze in colorado in the winter, so I'm planning on
shuttoff valve under the house and will drain it in the
There are two issues that I can think of. First you normally need a
high pressure pump for the required pressure to drive the sprinkler
system and second you should install a one-way valve to ensure the pump
will not pump water that's sat in the yard lines back into your home
supply lines. That's required by code in most places.
You will need *some* kind of backflow preventer
to protect the municipal supply. Maybe like:
BUT.......the people to ask are the city or water utility.
Ask *before* you make any connections.
When I installed our lawn irrigation system, I installed the
required backflow preventer.
Something you might consider is how you will drain the
system before hard freezing sets in. In my case, I
installed a connection to my air compressor, using a ball
valve. When it was time to drain the lines, I merely shut
off the water and turned on the air briefly, while cycling
Denver area here.
Go to Home Depot or Lowes. They have the necessary anti-siphon valves.
If using copper underground be sure to use the proper type for
underground use. Flare fittings without solder connections.
I recommend 1 inch PVC for the runs to the valve manifolds. Also
include a drain valve at each manifold.
My turn off valve is about 5 feet underground connected directly to the
main water line. I didn't put it in and still wonder why they did not
put the valve in the basement. Sometimes those valves get hard to turn
on and off. They have to be turned on full or the drain valve will weep.
The main turn off valve must be a gate or ball type so as not to lose
pressure. They are also available in the sprinkler department of the
Vacuum breaker such as this is required:
I have two underground boxes for my valve manifolds. One in front and
one in the backyard. Boxes of that type are available at Lowes and Home
Depot. Don't bury the valves as they do need maintenance now and then.
I used the rainbird valves:
I assume you have a basement, since you are talking about breaching your
foundation below grade. If so, it is better to route your supply line
outside above the foundation. Holes in foundations are rarely a good idea.
First step is to check your water supply for both volume and pressure.
If the pressure is too low you will have to put in a pump. You can
improve the volume by using a larger supply line.
If you have a basement, you probably have some sillcocks on the house
where you hook up your hoses. A good solution would be to replace the
line to that sillcock with a larger line, and route it through the
original hole, then down to where you will bury your valve box. Around
here we put a shutoff and a checkvalve inside (the checkvalve to prevent
backflow, but check your codes as they may require an antisiphon valve
instead). Then put a new sillcock on the line going down to the valve
box; you'll need it occasionally.
I know in areas where it never freezes, they use PVC underground. I've
been told that poly is a better choice in areas where there is freezing,
as it is more forgiving.
Use more zones, rather than fewer, and since valves are fairly cheap,
consider putting in a spare when you build your manifold.
I don't like using an air compressor to blow out the lines, as it takes
a rather large compressor and I don't have one, and I won't pay to have
mine blown out when, with some foresight, you can put in drains when you
are laying the pipe at very little expense, and let the system drain
itself. A drain is a cute little device that closes when there is water
pressure, but opens when there is no water pressure, so the line drains.
Put at least one of these on each zone at the lowest point; I throw in
a shovel of gravel to make a little drain field.
My most valuable tip is to find an irrigation supply house and buy your
stuff there, rather than at one of the big boxes, which are famous for
stopping carrying a brand just after you buy it. At the irrigation
supply house you will find a better grade of everything, compatibility
between parts, and informed advice, and I don't think their prices are
much, if any, higher than at the big box, and they always have
everything you need.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.