Bandsaw Blade Tracking


I have a delta 14" bandsaw with riser blocks. For the last couple of months I couldnt cut a straight line to save my life. Read all the post and couldnt come up with an answer. But I am proud to say I am cutting straight and true now. I did three things. the first was to check the coplane on the wheels. I got these line up like they show. I set the tension on the blade to 11000 lbs its a 1/4 inch. I used the inturra design gage which works very well. I also replaced the runner on the wheels. after that I cut a board and guess what it was as crocked as a dogs hind leg. what was needed to make this work right. I pulled out an old bandsaw book I had and started reading. Bam at one oclock in the morning I saw what I was doing wrong. Even though I did the coplaning as directed I had never been told to check it after you put the tension on the blade. I went down to the workshop and check it under tension and sure enough it was out aout 1/4 inch after the tension was put on the blade. I did the adjustment to bring the wheel back to coplane and it now cuts straight as an arrow. Hope this helps someone else.
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If you use a wider blade with more tension will you have to adjust again? Or is the biggest difference when the wheels are loaded vs. unloaded?
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yes you will, once you start checking and use the tension gage its less than a minute to set up. And your running true again
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Oh, Ok, I was under the impression that you were having to adjust the bottom wheel.
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"sdppm" wrote in message

Did you happen to notice if the blade was tracking in the center of the wheel under tension? That is usually a dead give-away.
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Dead give away for what?
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"arw01" wrote in message

See subject line ...
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The blade is now tracking in the center
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Thank you Thank you. I have struggled with the same. I just went and checked mine because I set it without tension and sure enough with a blade and tension it was about 1/4" off. Luckily I only had to pull two roll pins and re-drill some holes to fix the problem. I now have an extra set of holes but it's worth it to have it cut straight.I still have to use a little bit of lead to cut a straight line, but maybe a new set of tires will fix that. Thanks again. It sure makes sense to check it while under tension, but none of the books I read ever said that. Happy Sawdust bc PS I found that once I got it to tension, increasing the tension, as you would with a wider blade, made some minor changes in wheel tilt, but were easily corrected with the adjustment knob.
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You said you drilled some holes, where and for what????
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