I'm getting very frustrated trying to get smaller blades to stay on the tires. I have a jet 14" closed stand. It just sits unless I'm resawing. I've spent most of my day trying to get a 3/16" blade to stay on. I've read the manual and Duginsky's book. Maybe it's me but it's not working. I just want to make my wife a heart shaped bandsaw box. Thanks, Darrell
I have felt your frustration. I have two bandsaws myself. An 18" and a
12". The 18 is easier because I use larger blades on it. Right now I have a 1/16" blade on my 12". It can be a pain to track. If you have read the books, then you know the routine but it takes a fine hand to do it.I make sure my wheels are parallel. I made a jig to do this on my 12". I put the blade on under moderate tension and spin the top wheel by hand. If the blade begins moving toward the edge, I tilt the top wheel one way or the other until the blade movement stops. I usually have to do this a few times and then I have it. Then I finish tensioning the blade and double check to make sure the blade still tracks well. I make sure it runs well under hand pressure before turning the saw on.
I cut all kinds of things with this very small blade without trouble.
Good luck!
Rob
It can be done. I replaced the metal guides with some made from hardwood and positioned the wood guides gently up against the blade. I've used the wood guide blocks with the smallest blade available for my Delta 14" BS with no problems. IMHO, with small blades, the metal guides aren't much help in holding the blade. Howard Ruttan has done some study of wood guides for the banksaw:
Are the tires in good shape? Are the wheels coplaner? I set the tracking with all the guides away from the blade and just enough tension to hold the blade in place. . Turn the wheels by hand while adjusting the knob on back until it is riding right on top. After it is tracking, add some tension. Once the tension is set I bring the guides into place.
Also possible you have a blade that is crap.
You may do better by just starting everything over step by step. Good luck with your project. Ed
I have a Jet closed base and I run a 3/16" with noproblems. Wheels MUST be aligned and blade has to run in the middle of the tires. Maybe it is just "barely" out of line? Wouldn't take much with that small a blade to throw it off.
One other thing I use that seems to help with small blades is a Carter Bandsaw Stabilizer.
It replaces the upper guides and eliminates the need for lower guides. It is an amazing product.
Check it out.
Rob
I also have had this frustration. The tension alignment of the top wheel is very delicate. Just a 1/8" turn in or out can move the blade off center. If you get it tracking good don't mess with the tension anymore and don't untension it when not in use. You will then have to start all over to keep it in place. If the wheels are aligned right which they may not be, so check them with a good square. With patience you will get it to run nice.
Tim
While you've read the book, have you checked to see if your wheels are aligned to one another?
When ever are the wheel aligned with each other?
UA100
On Mon, 09 Feb 2004 10:09:05 GMT, Unisaw A100 brought forth from the murky depths:
Vertically? Always. Browse Duginske's "Band Saw Handbook" for "coplanar", Keets.
I don't buy the "coplanar" argument. The goal is to have the blade track correctly. My common-as-dirt Delta 14" tracks correctly when the wheels are not coplanar. There's even an adjustment to change the plane of the upper wheel in order to correct any problems with the blade not tracking right.
Realize that co-planar with no tension on the blade does NOT mean that it will actually be co-planar when it is tensioned. Check for co-planar with the blade appropriately tensioned
John
I had this same problem on my 10" Delta. I started looking for better cool blocks and asked the sales reps. at TWC when they showed up in town for the wood show in 2002. I was sold a stabilizer and I put it on as the instructions said. I wondered why the stabilizer didn't move the blade off of the wheels because you are required to get the blade on so it spins fine. Then the grove in the stabilizer is aligned with the back of the blade and the blade is then pushed forward about 1/8".
I never adjusted the tension. In fact I have changed to different size of blades only to 'snap' then onto the existing wheel tension and make sure the stabilizer is adjusted it's 1/8'. I have also noticed that adjustment of the tension knob doesn't really do anything.
I don't want to sound like spam, but I do know you can get the Cater Stabilizer at TWC for about $65, 1-800-892-4866.
If you don't have a Carter Stabilizer for your BS, then it is worth it to say that you must suffer the punishment of playing with the tension on the upper wheek until you get it right. Remember, wood has different thickness and hardness and a blade will wander in softer areas.
-- Woody
Check out my Web Page at:
On Mon, 09 Feb 2004 18:16:02 GMT, Larry Jaques scribbled:
Keith is down on Duginske, judging by some recent snide comments. Care to explain why, Keith? Please. Inquiring minds want to know.
Luigi Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
I was at a Scott Phillips demo a few months back. He said the same thing. You have to get the blade tracking on the top of the wheel just right. He is a fan of high tension for resawing in spite of what Timberwolf says. Ed snipped-for-privacy@snet.net
And what happens to co-planar when you track your band, ehh Lare?
UA100
Got an explanation for why my saw tracks perfectly despite the wheels not being co-planar?
UA100
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