Anyone use these soft close drawer adapters?

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wrote:

Was it Baltic birch? Not the three ply stuff?

I'm surprised with a shot like that, that she or whoever, didn't use something other than a camera while they had the opportunity. ;)
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No, just common 1/4 cabinet quality birch plywood, probably 3 ply. I place my drawer bottoms in groves on all 4 sides. That gives the bottom significantly more support than the typical method of sliding the bottom in under the drawer back and fixing with a few screws or brads. Plus those particular drawer sides, front, and back were made from 3/4" thick lumbercore and the groves for the bottoms were 3/8" deep.
And much more difficult to repair if the bottom fails and needs to be replaced. But I have almost always built drawers this way and none have failed, that I know of. Now I did build about 30-40 drawers for some bathroom cabinets for Swingman in 2011. His specs called for the bottoms to be slid in under the back of the drawer and fixed in place. Those drawers did however have 1/2 thick maple veneer plywood bottoms.

:-0 O. M. G.
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For some reason I thought the drawer bottom should be enclosed on all four sides.
Is there a minimum height above the bottom for the groove? In solid sided drawers I used 1/4" with a 1/4" x 1/4' groove when replacing drawers in my grand kids chest of drawers. They had 1/2" sides.
It would seem to me that a 3/8 grove should have a 1/2" space between it and the bottom of the sides, ends? Or is that excessive?

Were the drawers used as compartmental/bunk beds in an orphanage? :)

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On 2/13/2016 9:59 AM, OFWW wrote:

LOL, It is for me, I build them like I would a box.

That is a good amount to go with. I basically have my 1/4" drawer bottom "top side" 1/2" from the bottom of the sides. In real world reality the bottom side of the bottom ends up being a bit over 1/4 from the bottom of the sides as the plywood is narrower than 1/4" and I fit the slots to match the actual thickness of the plywood bottom.

It is all dependent on what you expect to put in the drawer and if you expect the bottom to bow from the weight. On my wide kitchen drawers that holds pots and pans I expected the plywood bottom to bow somewhat at times. I probably cut the groove 1/2 to 3/4" from the bottom.
I can't really allow too much but can certainly not allow enough.

no.. ~) Those were drawers built to last in to the next, next millennium. The sides were solid 3/4" maple.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/5471707872/in/album-72157622991960362/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/5471710794/in/album-72157622991960362/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/5471112571/in/album-72157622991960362/

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On 02/13/2016 9:03 AM, Leon wrote: ...

...
That way is, of course, very typical furniture drawer construction and in a lot of commercial cabinetry.
For heavier or larger kitchen drawers I don't think it matters terribly if one uses at least 3/8" instead of 1/4" ply or the more costly and labor intensive solid stock.
It generally has not been the bottom pulling away from the rear side that is the failure observed in my experience but the thin ply itself just isn't stiff enough and so bows excessively w/ time. This is only exacerbated by the thinner material available now and by more than just the relatively thickness as bending moments are ~bh^3 where the thickness is the height, h. Hence, a 64th short on a quarter isn't just 7/8 ~ 90% as stiff but (7/8}^3 or only 2/3-rds!
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On 02/13/2016 11:44 AM, dpb wrote: ...

I knew that seemed too bad even as I sent it...it's
> 15/16 ~ 94% as stiff but (15/16}^3 or only approx 80% more closely.
Still, you lose more than just proportional which can be significant for wide, deep drawers.
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On 2/13/2016 11:44 AM, dpb wrote:

Why I do this to the bottom of wider drawers (you can see the supports in the bottom of the drawer next to the one in the foreground.
Just cut them from drawer side scraps.
https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipPUW90ADqqWjOwdtpwKUbfBaVxo_bsnQ1SaP9kI/photo/AF1QipOhs5PgY7uCn44xin0QHQ75hcqbI98m88ais0zJ
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says...

hauler.

Is the drawer bottom supported on all four sides? The problem that usually happens with a too-light drawer bottom in the usual design where it slides in from the back and is only supported on three sides is that it bows and then slips out of the dadoes on the sides. Turning the drawr upside down and standing on it doesn't offer that failure mode.
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On 2/13/2016 2:33 PM, J. Clarke wrote:

Yes! the drawer bottom is supported on all four sides on the bottom. I only turned it upside down so that when I stood on the bottom that it did not bottom out against the floor. Upside down gave the plywood more room to flex.
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On 2/13/2016 2:33 PM, J. Clarke wrote:

I use either 1/4" crown staples, or appropriately sized screws and washers, or both on wider drawers, into the bottom edge of the drawer back to mitigate that greatly
If you need more, simple to screw a support across the same area.
Easily replaceable drawer bottoms can be thought of as a "feature", and will stand the test of time if executed properly, and it's easy to do that.
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On 2/12/2016 10:57 AM, -MIKE- wrote:

I can attest that wide drawers can have a lot of wobble back and forth when the drawers are extended. This is with any side mount full extension slide.
I replaced and added deep deeper drawers to our kitchen island about 5 years ago. They are soft close and apparently my alignment for one was not perfect as over time one drawer does not soft close properly. It still works smoothly and shuts but every now and again the soft close seems to be defeated on one side or the other. The fix for that drawer is to simply open and close it several time and it corrects itself. I am sure that is not always going to be the case with each one that may begin to have issues with the soft close.
BUT tolerances seem to be important with the slide engaging the built in soft close mechanism. If the slides have a lot of wobble they could over time become a bit too sloppy for the soft close be engaged when the drawer is closed and reload when the drawer is opened.
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