I have a client that wants a wall of garage cabinets.
There will be 2 doors that will each be 21" wide and 90" tall.
Additionally there will be 6 doors that will be 18" by 25" tall.
With that in mind I am giving him 2 options for types of doors, solid
panel 3/4" thick water resistant MDF or 3/4" thick poplar frame and
1/4" paint grade panels.
He wants soft close hinges, Euro style.
I will likely have 4 hinges on each of the large doors and 2 one the
1. Do buy all soft close hinges or only 1 soft close hinge mixed with a
standard appropriate hinge?
2. Use standard hinges and add the soft close "add on" unit to each door.
What operating range ? <110 degree only for integral soft close ? >
If you want a 120 or 180 degree range - the soft close damper is
separate option and clips onto the hinge .. or dampers are available
as stand-alone - to be used with any springed hinge.
I would go with clip-on - then you can add or remove - to suit the
spring pressure of the various doors.
Should be rating by weight from manufacturer, Leon?
For the big 'uns I get roughly 35-40 lb/door which is substantial if go MDF.
I'd suggest unless there's something in these 90" cabinets that is
actually 7-ft long (which I suppose is possible if is planning on
hanging yard tools behind doors which personally I think is a mistake,
too :) ) he'll rue the decision down the road...but that's not the
Except for 3-8 doors or ones that extraordinarily heavy, I rarely use
more than 3 hinges on any door.
IME, and particularly with cabinets doors, it is rarely necessary, and
you will find adjusting the alignment of four euro hinges for smooth
operation over a long length can be problematic if there is even the
slightest lack of flatness, which is not unusual with taller doors over
AAMOF, a couple of times I've had to remove a hinge completely, and plug
the cup hole, to get a door to work properly.
Then again, if you feel the need, and it works, go with your gut.
IME, they all need to be the same. Insuring all hinges are the same
type, make and model is paramount for a smooth, lasting operation.
I'll choose a high quality, built-in soft close, hinge over an "add on"
part every time ... more points of failure, higher possibility for call
YMMV ... and as long as it works, and the client is happy...
In soft close, I particularly like the 110 S/C Salice hinges ... good
overlay and installation, choices and the quality/price ration has been
excellent, to date.
CornerStone is my goto supplier and I usually go with something on this
I found a Blum, essentially the same that I buy 50 at a time but with
And the hinge I normally use.
The soft close? The regular close Blum is pretty tough, I have
probably bought 3~4 hundred of them over the years. Much cheaper in
boxes of 50 and they often go on sale for about $1 each in boxes of 50.
And a life time warranty. I have had a couple of Blum's fail, not this
design, I installed them in 1990ish. Blum replaced all, broken or not,
on a particular door. They were slightly different but not enough to
cause a visual impact.
Yes, soft close. I will go to them again. The only thing that would
make them better is an up-down adjustment that didn't involve loosening
the fastening screw. But I get it. Without loosening both (all)
fastening screws on the door, some serious torque could be exerted on a
BTW, there's a tiny little switch in the cup-side of the hinge for
turning the soft-close on-off. I guess that could come in handy for
fine tuning a 3-hinge door.
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
I know you already know this, but for anyone else wondering, I'd talk up
the water resistant MDF slab doors hard, and also turn those tall ones
into 2 each.
MDF may be heavy, but once finished, much more likely to start flat, and
stay flat over time, and so damned easy/inexpensive to cut/replace, and
they look great.
Linda and I were invited for this past Thanksgiving dinner and those
doors are still as flat, with the same precise 3/32 reveal, as the day
you and I installed them five years ago.
On Friday, March 4, 2016 at 9:14:00 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
I think the manufacturer's suggestion would be the way to tackle the number of hinges. They will have their calculations built into their recommendations that will include weight and the ability of the hinges to move a door.
Also... might I suggest MDO instead of MDF for the large doors if you go that route? Water resistant MDF will warp and move in high temps and humidity, IME << even after sealing >>.
MDO would be probably be lighter too. If you went with the rail/stile construct, you could also use MDO in your panels for a split decision between your two presented options.
Even if the MDF was "water resistant", that doesn't mean you won't get movement. (DAMHIKT) At the least, I would borrow Karl's Earlex and squirt a coat of shellac on the faces before starting, and then again on the edges after cutting to final size.
Just a couple of thoughts...
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