another motor question

I'm still getting my 36" bandsaw set up... the infrastructure to house and feed it is a significant project! Anyhow, I still have not settled the motor issue. The saw has a 5 HP 3 Phase Ajax motor that has new bearings and it tests out fine. Lacking 3 phase power I either need a convertor (probably go with a rotary if I go that route) or change the motor to single phase. I've found a Baldor motor, L1410T, that looks like a viable option. The particular vendor ad I looked at says it comes with a starter--I don't know what that means exactly but a separate box with a button on it is shown in the photo.
I looked the motor up on the Baldor web site but don't fully understand the specifications.
http://www.baldor.com/products/specs.asp?1=1&catalog=L1410T&product ¬+Motors&family=General+Purpose%7Cvw_ACMotors_GeneralPurposeOf particular interest is the "starting current" which is listed at 140 ampsin the performance data section... that seems really high for a motor thathits 34 amps at 150% of rated load, 23 full load amps, and 8.4 no-load amps.I cannot fathom ever pushing the bandsaw to the point where 5 HP, i.e., 23amps, isn't enough... To net this question out, can I run this off a 30 amp230 V circuit? Also, what is the starter? ...is it simply a remote switch?Thanks,John
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Also, what is the starter? ...is it simply a remote switch? Thanks,John
I'll let electricians answer in detail but motors like this need more than a simple on\off switch because the pull so much juice to get started. A starter is just an on\off switch that has some extra circutry to manage the loading during that start up phase so your circuit won't pop. These switches also usually have a setting that allows you to set how hot the switch can get before it throws it's own circuit breaker if you get the motor under too much load.
Go to the Grizzly website and look up any of the starter switches they sell. Download the associated owners manual PDF and they give a really good laymans description (in broken Chinese to English translation).
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"John Grossbohlin" wrote:

A rotary converter would be the "cleanest" solution. -----------------------------------------

A motor "starter" consists of a multipole line voltage contactor (Big Relay) along with a block overload relay assembled into a common unit.
The coil of the contactor is controlled by "start" and "stop" push buttons.
The "starter" along with the S/S push buttons are often package in a common enclosure. ----------------------------------------------

http://www.baldor.com/products/specs.asp?1=1&catalog=L1410T&product ¬+Motors&family=General+Purpose%7Cvw_ACMotors_GeneralPurposeOf

Quite common to have the starting inrush current to be in the order of 10-12 times the FLA (Full Load Current). ---------------------------------------------- To net this question out, can I run this off a 30 amp230 V circuit? Also, what is the starter? ...is it simply a remote switch? --------------------------------------- No, you need at least a 40A c'bkr to operate a 5HP, 240V, 1PH motor.
I'd use a 2P-60A and get on with life.
The fact that you have an Ajax motor installed tells me it's been around a while.
Trying to install a modern day single phase motor could prove to be an interesting challenge which is why a rotary converter could be the "Clean" solution.
Lew
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Interesting info from all who replied... seems that the starter will act like a magnetic switch which would be a good thing.
Mounting a new motor is a non-issue... I could put a gasoline engine on it or even a belt drive! The saw is a restored 36" 1905 Crescent that I believe was a belt drive originally. Somewhere along the way the 5 HP was added. http://owwm.com/photoindex/detail.aspx?id 561
Guess I've got to make a decision soon so I can get the infrastructure buttoned up!
Thanks
John
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"John Grossbohlin" wrote:

That's exactly what it is.
A magnetic motor starter provides undervoltage as well as overload protection. ---------------------------------------

The photo of you off loading saw speaks volumes.
Your right you can mount most anything as a prime mover, especially if you use a V-Belt drive.
Have fun.
Lew
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It's one of those things that mere words cannot adequately describe... it's huge and cool ! LOL

It's set up for 5 v-belts now. I don't know that it really needs 5 belts but that's what it's got... I'm thinking the weak link is either the blade to the tires or the tires to the wheels rather than drive belt slippage.

Will do!
John
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"John Grossbohlin" wrote:

SFWIW:
5HP/230V/1 PH/1740RPM = Grainger 5K968 5HP/230V/1PH/3500RPM = Grainger 6K146
Both are TEFC, Cap start, Cap run, Dayton Brand (Internal Grainger brand made in Wisc)
Ball park $600-$650 range (My cat is out of date)
Lew
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I laid my hands on a Baldor L1410T with a Siemens starter. It's 5 HP/230/1 PH/1725 RPM. New in the box off Craigs List for $300. Seemed like a good deal so I jumped on it.
The guy bought it for an engine lathe, never installed it and then sold the lathe. He's got a bunch of neat stuff at his house... bandsaw mill, a couple shapers, cabinet saw, jointers, etc. He is interested in joining my club too which will be good as he was a professional woodworker before retiring and can bring experience to the group.
John
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"John Grossbohlin" wrote:

Sounds like a winner to me. ------------------------------

You definitely don't want him to get away<G>.
You ARE going to post some pics when you get it operational, aren't you?
Lew
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Yes, I'll post some photos when it's up and running. It will be a while before that happens though as I have to raise the roof on my "wood shed" so that it fits... The saw stands a good 8 feet tall and the shed isn't tall enough. At the moment the saw is in the shed but in pieces. I need to replace the conduit and wire servicing the shed too as the previous owner used steel conduit buried in the ground and everything is badly corroded. The saw was the easy part, the infrastructure is the hard part!
John
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"John Grossbohlin" wrote:

We'll all be waiting. -------------------------- It will be a while

One thing just leads to another doesn't it? ------------------------------------------

If you run a 2P-60a service from a 2P-60a Branch c'bkr in your house out to a sub panel in the shop, you should have all the shop power you will ever need.
I'd probably run #4 AWG in 1-1/2" plastic, but then again, pulling wire in small conduit is not on my list of favorite things to do.
Lew

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Yes, one thing does lead to another. I've already started the 1 1/2" plastic conduit... First part of the project was to replace the floor structure. I ripped out the old floor, put down crushed stone, 6x6 PT sleepers and planked the floor with 8/4" rough cut. I ran the conduit into the structure under the floor while I was at it. I figure that by the end of the summer, while taking breaks from renovating the house, I'll get the shed done and the saw up and running. One step at a time... one step at a time.
BTW, this shed is my wood and lawn equipment shed, not my shop. I'll need to put up some wood drying sheds after that to hold the output from the saw. One thing leads to another... ;~)
John
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On May 6, 12:00 am, "John Grossbohlin"

Another feature of the starter switch, that once the motor is running, if you have a momentary outage of power, and the power gets restored, the switch will cut out and keep the motor off....this is a safety feature.
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