I have a Grizzly G0555 with a 12" riser. Added an Iturra spring.
I have had no problems with except one.
I've been trying to use a 1/8" blade for some scroll work and I'm having a
helluva time keeping the blade tracking.
I get it set and it runs fine for a little while and then it will start to
move either forward or back. I've tried TimberWolf and Olsen and HIghland
Hardware 105" blades and it makes no difference.
I've tried putting it on the crest of the wheel, just in front or just
behind the crest. It just seems so touchy I figure there must be a better
There are 10 kinds of people - those who understand binary and those who
12" riser? not 6"
anyway, a 1/8 blade is a touchy blade. I use a carter guide for
scrolling. This is not a blade that you use for long straight cuts, it
needs support and it needs the guides setup perfectly if you are using
guides. I don't use guides with the 1/8, just the single thrust bearing
behind the blade which has a groove in it...
If you are talking tracking on the wheel itself, well that's a result of
a tuned saw. you must have a coplanar set of wheels, you must have a
crowned wheel, and you must set the guides correctly as above. Coplanar
is the most important 1st step.
Yes - 6". :)
I am using the Carter guide. The cut quality is fine - just that the blade
will come off the crown of the wheel and move rapidly forward or back. I can
check again but the wheels are coplanar. I've used 3/16, 1/4, 1/2 blades
with no problem with tracking - just this 1/8" that's giving me fits. I'll
take it off and rechec the wheels and then reinstall. Perhaps I didn't get
it right on the crown of both top/bottom wheels.
You should not have to do much to get it on the crown, the blade should
tend to find the crown on it's own if its coplanar, but because it's a
thinner blade the teeth are a bigger part of the blade, and therefore
cause more problems in getting it centered. Also make sure your wheels
are dead true, any out of true wobble will cause issues. 1/8 is a
Because it works fine for a while I'm thinking that the blade is stretching
as it warms up. Perhaps adding a bit more blade tension after cutting for a
while, to compensate for the stretching, would help.
On Sunday, February 16, 2014 10:35:25 PM UTC-5, Vic Baron wrote:
I think you've already gotten some good input from others. When I first re
ad of your problem, I wondered if there was a practical limit to how small
the blade could be for a certain radius of curvature of the wheel camber.
Perhaps 1/8" is too small for the camber on that model of wheel. Still, I
like the thermal expansion explanation better.
I have the same bandsaw with the same riser block. I have long suspected t
he stock spring (probably from reading this group)as being inadequate. I'd
like to hear more about your experience with the Iturra spring.
Hey Bill - When I first purchased the G0555 I git a lot of recommendations
from folks here to get the Iturra spring. Basically I've had no problems
with it. It is firmer than the stock spring so you don't have to crank as
much to tension the blade. I was also able to get a 3/4" Wood Slicer on that
saw and tension it properly. I could not have done that with the stock
spring. I've had it for several years and it appears to be just as strong as
ever so I'm assuming the other feature about holding it's strength holds
The 1/8" blade is tracking fine now but I am more aware of the thermal
expansion. I have no issues with a 3/16" blade but the 1/8 seems to be
Decided to get a small 10" Rikon bandsaw also. Swapping blades during a
project can be a pita so I'll set one up for resaw and the other for any
scroll type stuff.
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