Toilet leak

I am fitting a new concealed cistern. I cannot get a tight seal where the cistern base pipe meets the toilet bowl and when I flush the toilet water pours from this joint. Has anyone got any tricks of the trade?

Reply to
Denis M.
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What make & model cistern etc?

Presume 'context queens' will manage without.....

Jim K

Reply to
JimK

"Denis M." wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:

How have you made the joint? Was anything supplied with the bowl?

Reply to
DerbyBorn

Sorry, I don't know what make. Its very basic thought!!

Reply to
Denis M.

cistern base pipe meets the toilet bowl and when I flush the toilet water pours from this joint. Has anyone got any tricks of the trade?

The problem was that the cistern was continually running water which overfl owed. A plumber replaced the cistern first but that too had a defective par t. The plumber wouldn't come back and simply left the replacement part!!!! All the other parts are the originals including the seal between bowl and c isyern.

Reply to
Denis M.

is it a flexi? anyway I had all this and ended up with a whole tube of white silicone plastered everywhere

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

The seal is made with one of these;

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Reply to
The Medway Handyman

I may had something similar (I think, from what little you've said). There is a pipe which enters the bottom of our toilet cistern; the moulding of the cistern is *slightly* wrong, such that the curve of the cistern infringes on where the hole for this pipe is, thus the joint is (was) not perfectly sealed. The result was a constant drip.

After months of tightening and re-tightening the pipe (all the while nervous of cracking the porcelain), scratching my head, looking for some other source of leak, I finally realised that the joint was a fraction too close to the curve in the moulding. I disassembled the joint, re-assembled with "plumber's gunge" in addition to the washers, and I haven't had the problem since.

I should have got the plumber back right away, but being a DIY sorta guy, I always thought it would be "easy enough for me to fix when I get round to it" .... we put up with that leak for years!

John

Reply to
Another John

The "doughnut washer" which seals between bowl and cistern can't be reused as it deforms and won't reseal after it's been installed a for a short time. You will need a new one (which will look bigger than the one you took out).

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

If its a concealed (or congealed) cistern it will use a pipe?

I agree re doughnuts :-)

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

When I went to buy a corner sink, the BM took me too a room and said 'pick the best one, they are all different'..

..and they were. Apparently china for bogs/basins is something that shrinks after moulding.

The doughnut seals can only cope with so much: the answer is extra sealer in the form of mait or silicone which is a way to make a conformant gasket.

One of my plumbers advised me to always throw away most of the seals on bathroom china and use silicone instead.

He has been proved right many times.

big beads on silicone, finger tight: wipe off excess with white spirit, wait 24 hours and tighten down hard

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

I am confused. Are we talking low level cistern connected by short bent pipe - or a coupled cistern that uses a doughnut?

People are answering with what they know - but the OP said "pipe" - but did he mean a pipe?

Reply to
DerbyBorn

So similar to a high level cistern but with a short pipe connecting cistern to bowl. Not a close coupled set up where the cisten sits on the back of the bowl with a "doughnut" around the cistern outlet that empties directly into the part of the bowl it is sat on.

We have a high level system here and the flush pipe fits into a soft rubber sealing grommit type thing. You say "pours" so presumably you don't have one of these:

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Reply to
Dave Liquorice

He also said 'concealed cistern'. Which means a pipe, not a doughnut.

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

I had a weep from mine post fitting.

I cured it by injecting silicone *into the joint* with something like one of these:

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Fine tip is still OK to pump silicone through and allows it to be injected 5mm+ into the joint all round.

These days I might replace the silicone with Geocel The Works as it works on wet substrates.

Reply to
Tim Watts

Tim Watts wrote in news:t0ksbb-gt4.ln1 @squidward.local.dionic.net:

Before bodging with gunks and gunges, have you got the pipe centralised and in good alignment? Are you using the correct parts?

Reply to
DerbyBorn

I find these much less effective than the old rubber sort with the extra lip which folds over the outside of the boss on the pedestal, especially if the alignment is not very good. I've never taken the trouble to change the bend angle of the plastic pipe on one of my loos to fix this, so always need to re-seal it with silicone when it gets disturbed.

Reply to
newshound

Can't be sure of the material of the last one, but the first two look much better to me than the thing TMH posted. Don't recall seeing either in Wickes before, but will certainly hunt for some for spares next time I am there.

Reply to
newshound

Indeed (though not always easy to get perfectly aligned).

Reply to
newshound

I did - it was a poor quality plastic (rather than rubber) seal...

Reply to
Tim Watts

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