Stud wall advice

Good. Using a stud patition to fill in a doorway in a block wall would almost certainly result in the plaster skim cracking.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)
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If you decide to give plastering a go, try using lime plaster. It takes forever to go off, so you can take your time and get it as spot on as you can. And if you end up not neat enough, nowt lost.

NT

Reply to
meow2222

How British. Because it is there I must blindly do the same.

Any figures for this? Or are you making things up?

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

Fermacell can do that. Fill in level with surrounding wall and use their filler to mesh into existing plaster.

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

What nonsense.

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

I don't think I'd bother with a mixer for a job that size personally; especially if you're new to bricklaying you won't be particularly quick. But if you do, it only a one-day hire from HSS is only about a tenner. Assuming you were going to pay for a pro to skim the stud partition, then if you diy'ed the plaster basecoat on your block wall (which isn't rocket science) then you're just left with the same cost of hiring a pro to do the skimming.

David

Reply to
Lobster

Just on the existing floor. This isn't going to be a load-bearing wall, and blocks aren't particularly heavy.

David

Reply to
Lobster

This is madness. He is only wanting a small amount of walling and some filling and they tell him, to use blocks and wet plasters. Madness. Simpler, easier and less hassle and skill solutions are there.

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

You have got to be kidding. A block wall is 1/2 ton one metre in length. which is heavy. Best go for a stud wall, high density bats and Fermacell boards. So easy.

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

Sorry, NT, but I think you're obsessed! Whack on the browning and finish in this case....

Reply to
Chris Bacon

In message , Lobster writes

I hired one last year when I had to lay a couple of large patios. It did make things a lot easier.

Yeah, I've been giving that some thought. I reckon I could manage it.

Thanks.

Reply to
Paul Giverin

Screw on the Fermacell and a little filler more likely.

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

Did anyone see the muppets in last week's Property Ladder playing with the stuff? They had dozens and dozens of premixed plastic tubs of the stuff all stacked up in the garden...

David

Reply to
Lobster

Television apart, lime certainly has a place in buildings, but it's not simply a case of gypsum/cement bad, lime good.

Reply to
Chris Bacon

So you don't approve of repairing a wall using the same materials as it's built of? Seems your cowboy tendencies extend beyond plumbing...

For air borne noise transmission it has always been and always will be the case.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

So you consider there's no skill needed to build a stud partition wall properly?

Figures, given you've never built anything.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

** snip babbling senility **
Reply to
Doctor Drivel

** snip senile babble **
Reply to
Doctor Drivel

** snip senile babble **
Reply to
Doctor Drivel

DD,

From what Paul has described, 'filling' the hole with block etc is the correct way to resolve the job.

It it utter madness to use a single stud wall if you require any modicum of sound insulation (as stated in the OP) because no matter how you stuff insulation into it the sound WILL travel though the studs.

To get a 'soundproof' stud wall, you have to build two of the little beggars with a gap in between so that that the frame works are NOT touching and then fill this gap with the relevant sound insulation - this by the way, is from over forty years of experience and of being involved in constructing the 'odd soundproof' room using both concrete blocks and stud partitions.

In this type of job, cost effectiveness may well decide the outcome of what materials are used anyway!

Brian G

Reply to
Brian G

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