Stud wall advice

[Paul Giverin]

I'm in the process of converting two kitchen cupboards into a downstairs toilet. I've knocked through a new doorway from the hall and I am now going to block off the cupboard doors and knock the two cupboards into one.

The two doors are next to each other with only the thickness of the (soon to be removed) dividing wall between them. Originally I planned to fill the double door size with breeze blocks to form a solid wall but a friend convinced me that a stud wall would be a lot easier.

My only concern is that some time in the future I will need to utilise this new wall space for wall mounted kitchen units to recover some of the lost space from the old built in cupboards. I'm worried about hanging these units on a stud wall. One friend has recommended fixing

18mm plywood sheeting under the plasterboard on the kitchen side of the stud wall. Another friend has said that this is an overkill and that with the correct fixings, I should be fine with just the plasterboard.

I'd appreciate a few more opinions please.

I'd also like to use some sort of sound insulation in the partition to ensure that we don't hear people using the loo from the kitchen. Any recommendations?

TIA,

[Brian G]

Stud partition wall might be easier, but a block wall, rendered and skimmed would be better IMO.

A stud wall will carry the weight (especially if you use something like 4" x

2"). With regards to fixing the wall units, the best thing to do is to work out the approximate locations of the units and fit sufficient 4" x 2" 'noggin' in those areas to screw the units to and then plasterboard the studding as normal.

I wouldn't recommend using just the plasterboard for unit fitting as there is very little sterngth in that. What you could do, is use a reduced thickness nogin method in the fixing area and then screw some plywood to this and then carry out plasterboarding as normal.

No matter what sound insulation you place between the studding, noise will travel through the wall via the studs that the plasterboard is nailed to. If want a high level of noise insulation, then you build two stud walls with something like a two to four inch gap between them and then fill that gap entirely with (I believe) a 'dense' type of insulation.

Hope this is of some use Paul?

Brian G

[Doctor Drivel]

Install Rockwool bats in the space. Nice and tight. Use Fermacell plasterboard. It is pre-finished and similar to MDF:

No plastering, use a type of filler to fill the gaps and holes. It screws to the studs

[Owain]

IIRC 2 thicknesses of plasterboard are usually used on each side of such walls. This work will be subject to Building Regulations, which address sound transmission between rooms - have you asked your BCO for guidance on this matter?

Owain

[Nick H]

Personally i'd go with a block wall. Its not to big a project for DI and the results are always going to be better with regards to soun insulation and fixings. A double door size opening is only about 40 blocks so it shouldn't tak you long, you can hire a mixer or lend one from a mate. You'll need t tie the blocks in at each end but you can use bolt on "furfix" typ profiles. If the plasterings a problem then you can always dry line it again not a difficult job. I would guess from the fact you've started the job that your fairl competent with the tools so go for it

-- Nick H

[Doctor Drivel]

Fermacell and rockwool bats more than cover sound transmission.

[Chris Bacon]

Yes. Use blocks.

[mcbrien410]

Paul, I posted this quite recently.......... 2. [e-mail] Nov 24, 7:56 pm show options

Newsgroups: uk.d-i-y From: [e-mail] - Find messages by this author Date: 24 Nov 2005 11:56:27 -0800 Local: Thurs, Nov 24 2005 7:56 pm Subject: Re: Help! Wall insulation Reply | Reply to Author | Forward | Print | Individual Message | Show original | Remove | Report Abuse

Danny, I posted this just recently............... Just thought I'd share this info with everyone. I've just added a Dormer to a new upstairs room. Basically 4" x 2" (95mm x 45mm) stud walls. I've 'stuffed' it with the following insulation called Rocksilk by Knauf. The spec. sheet gives the following details...

UNIVERSAL SLAB RS45 Thickness 100mm (I have also used 75mm)

Length: 1200mm Width: 600mm Area per pack (m^2): 3.6 Lamda (W/mK): 0.035 R Value (m^2K/W): 2.85 Fire ClassSlabs per Pack: A1 Slabs per Pallet: 5 Product Code: 2361392

The price for one pack from Sheffield Insulations in Aberdeen was =A332. So that's nearly =A310 per square metre. Quite expensive for what it is. It is good to work with, easily cut with a breadknife. Just cut it about a quarter inch oversize and push between the studs.

Regarding the hanging of cabinets, why not insert a couple of horizontal studs at the correct height while you are in there. Or you could fit a decorative Dado type rail under the cabinets to take some of the weight.

Chris.

[Paul Giverin]

In message , Nick H writes

Thanks Nick for the advice and thanks to everyone else for their input.

I'm going to give some more thought about using blocks. Obviously it will be better for strength and for sound insulation. I initially thought it would be more costly as I'd have to hire a mixer and then have the wall rendered and plastered on both sides. A stud wall would have just required a skim but I suppose the cost of the timber, plasterboard, plywood (if needed for strength) and sound insulation would probably cost just as much.

I've not done a lot of bricklaying (brick BBQ's and other garden projects) but I'm sure I'll be fine if I take it slowly.

Thanks again.

[Nick H]

Why not stop pi**ing about and do a proper job with blocks

-- Nick H

[Doctor Drivel]

Studs and Fermacell means wet trades. Kitchen cabinets can be hung off Fermacell.

[Doctor Drivel]

No.

No. Fermacell each side a dense bats will equal a block. Fermacell requires no skimming. No wet skills at all required.

[<me9]

What would you lay the blocks on? The oversite concrete, or a lintel below floor level, or break into the oversite concrete and dig down to foundation level? I would guess oversite concrete would be adequate, but would a BCO agree?

[Dave Plowman (News)]

What on earth are you talking about, fool?

[Doctor Drivel]

He must have watched Ballamory this morning.

[Doctor Drivel]

Because blocks is not a "proper" job. How Btritish. Studs and Fermacell is all he needs, then no wet trades or skills required. Easy to do and a quick job of equal performance to blocks.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Don't you know what you watch?

[Doctor Drivel]

He thinks he is Archie the Inventor, resplendent in pink and kilt.

[Nick H]

The fact that he is considering using blocks would lead one to assum the existing structure is brick/block. In which case using blocks t fill the doorway is the "proper" job. You can stuff a stud wall with as much insulation as you like but ther is no substitute for mass, so blocks will win it every tim

-- Nick H

[Paul Giverin]

In message , Nick H writes

That's correct.

Taking all the advice onboard, I've decided to go with my first preference and use blocks. I don't know any thing about Fermacell and it may be brilliant but as I'm filling in a couple of doorways in an existing wall, I'd still need a plasterer in for a top skim to make the job look invisible.

Thanks again everyone.