SDS tile remover versus flat chisel?

[Lobster]

I shortly have a roomful of tiles to shift (ie a bathroom tiled floor to ceiling)... I already have a 40mm flat SDS chisel (Screwfix 15618); and my question is, is it really worthwhile spending another 30 quid on a cranked

80mm tile remover (Screwfix 89391)? Is it that much better than a chisel? I mean - my el-naffo SDS machine cost me less than that itself!

I'm guessing it might depend how firmly the tiles are attached, right? Quite a few of these tiles have already dropped off over the years courtesy of gravity and cruddy plaster; so - worth a go with the chisel first maybe?

Thanks David

[[news]]

I've always found a 4" bolster chisel and a 5lb lump hammer to be most effective at shifting tiles and an old 2 1/2" wood chisel with a 2lb lump hammer for removing the remaining grout.

a good whack, one at a time, get the angle right and they just pop off taking most of the grout with them and usually a little skimcoat, ime.

RT

[Lurch]

On Wed, 15 Dec 2004 16:56:42 GMT, "Lobster" strung together this:

Yep, it doesn't take me long with a hammer and chisel or SDS with chisel to remove them all. Just remember not to go in at too steep an angle and rip all the plaster off. If it's on plasterboard you're better of doing it by hand.

[TonyK]

Bolster and hammer seems the way to go. Removed a whole kitchens worth yesterday and tried the SDS and chisel but found it took off lumps of plaster and shattered the tiles as well. The old fashioned way was much cleaner and quicker.

[David M]

I used a combination of the SDS and hammer and chisel for the bathroom, depending on the condition of the tiles/walls, nearly managed a complete wall in about three goes with the hammer and chisel as the tiles (two layers) did not have very good adhesion but the opposite wall was a nightmare for the manual approach and the SDS worked wonders.

The moral being that it all depends, hit them with the manual approach, if it's a pain move to the SDS. I do have the tile chisel for the SDS, and it has been worthwhile, as especially on some floor tile in the porch. I've still got a complete kitchen to attack at some point, but I'm not convinced that it would have been worthwhile for only one job.

I reckon the manual approach is certainly worth a try initially, especially as the alternative is your "el-naffo SDS machine" , which tend to come in at a fighting weight of about 5kg, and are not geared to prolonged use.

cheers

David

[General Lee]

flat nail bar and 26oz hammer. put short cranked end of flat nail bar to edge of tile, being careful to hold small end parallel to wall, and hit like hell. Repeat process for remaining tiles. FYI, flat nail bar a couple of feet long and a few inches wide. Remove remaining adhesive with stanley 4 inch long handled scraper, then do plaster, plasterboard repairs. PVA bond the lot, and you are ready to set out for tiling.

Lee

[Christian McArdle]

My most favourite DIY job in the world. I have a cheap SDS cold chisel bit on the cheap NuTool drill and the tiles hurl themselves off the wall whole at the sight of it. The same tiles with hammer and chisel break into 500 tiny sharp shards still firmly embedded on the wall.

The job is so easy and satisfying with the cheap chisel bit, I couldn't see any reason to spend 30 quid on a specialist bit.

Christian.

[Lobster]

What are you doing on Saturday, Christian? ;-)

I have a cheap SDS cold chisel bit

Sounds like it's pretty well unanimous then: I'll get cracking with my existing kit, ie combo of lump hammer, bolster chisel and SDS chisel and see how it goes.

Thanks for the advice, all!

David

[Christian McArdle]

Technique is important. Run the chisel along the wall, not into it! There's no need to go in a deep angle and "lever" it off. Just a sideways movement has them pinging off with minimal damage to the plaster.

Christian.