Best SDS for tile removal

Just about to de-tile my kitchen - don't have an SDS drill, but hired one some time ago to do a similar job in the bathroom, and was impressed, so I'm thinking of buying one.

So, any recommendations from the Screwfix range for the job (and other future SDS-worthy jobs) would be welcome.

I shall get the tile removing chisel 89391(amongst others), so a suitable device to use it with would be great.

Chris

Reply to
Chris Kaley
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tile removal is a long job, so you will need a light weight unit, the cheapie things are too heavy to hold up for long, perhaps a bosch would be nice like screwfix 16770

Reply to
MrCheerful

Get chisel 15618 and save £20.

Reply to
MoJo

I can recommend the SF angled SDS chisel bit that's specifically for removing tiles. It makes and awful job almost fun. Last bathroom I did I removed all the old tiles in about 15mins..

Reply to
BillV

Thanks for the suggestions - food for thought.

Reply to
Chris Kaley

Mega newbie question - what does SDS stand for ??

Reply to
MiniEmma

OK don't answer that - i did a google on this group :-)

Reply to
MiniEmma

I thought the Ferm sander/scraper was pretty good until I read that,

15 minutes. Only way to do it faster than that would be dynamite :)

Regards, NT

Reply to
N. Thornton

Good for you MiniEmma - you just saved us a *very* long thread.

If you do anything more than the odd weekend's worth of diy, get an SDS (DeWalt or Bosch). You'll wonder how you lived without one.

Reply to
Grunff

I'm reminded of a patent for nitrocellulose based paint, combined with a detonator, that was designed to set it off. Get bored of the colour, simply stand well back, light the blue touchpaper, and away it goes.

Reply to
Ian Stirling

Yup, it took me longer to get the sds m/c out of the car, set it up & cover up what shouldn't get scratched .... then pack it all away afterwards. Mind you the noise was horrendous.... As it was a couple of weeks ago when I used sds chisel to make new hole in concrete service shaft in a relative's flat ... made short work of that too but the noise rang through the whole block :-)

Reply to
BillV

In article , Chris Kaley writes

Depending on how your tiles were fixed on, you may want to think about the chisel. I got the tile remover and a narrow chisel. I soon found that the narrow bit works better than the tile remover, largely because the tiles were mounted on mortar, giving an inch or so of material to remove.

As others have said, it is a quick way of doing it, but I reckon that it is messier (more dust) than doing with a bolster and club hammer.

Adrian

Reply to
Adrian Simpson

I used the cheapest NuTool I could find (50 quid at the time, now more like

25 or 30). I used the cheap cold chisel that came with it. I emptied an entire room of tiles in around 5 minutes. I was tempted to stick them all back on again, so I could do it again.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

Blimey - a glutton for punishment. And will this Nutool be good for many more similar jobs, one wonders?

Reply to
Chris Kaley

Or Makita!

Alex

Reply to
Alex

Yes, I use mine all the time. Chiselling, chasing, demolition, core drilling, tile scraping, and, most frequently, simply drilling for wall plugs. Some people have complained about reliability on the NuTool, but mine has performed flawlessly.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

Yeah, sorry, or Makita.

Reply to
Grunff

Same with my £60 JCB.

I thought that it would blow up and then I could try to explain to SWMBO that I really should get a MaWalt or a Dekita or one of those other superb but hideously expensive machines.

Now I'm stuck with it for ever.

Reply to
Mike

Would you recommend a lightweight (2 Kg) or a more substantial unit (around

4Kg). I appreciate the larger >
Reply to
Chris Kaley

What other jobs have you in mind? I have a (admittedly expensive) 2kg machine, which has had extensive use over the past couple of years with no problems at all. Toughest job for it was probably when I had to cut 1 ft. square diamond patterns into thick concrete. Couldn't use a sledgehammer as the path was too fragile, so cut the edges of the diamond with an angle grinder, then drilled & chiselled out the internals. Got hot but worked fine.

I am a reasonably strong chap and personally would find the use of a larger machine for long intervals at awkward angles or up ladders quite uncomfortable. But I guess everyone has their own preferences...

Alex

Reply to
Alex

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