I want to convert an IP rated shower downlight to LED - currently its 12v M R16 so new LED driver and LED bulb required?
Screwfux have 2 drivers £15 odd or £16 odd ?!! Toolsatan similar...
Anyone suggest a make to go for (or avoid) & a more economical source ?
For the LED bulb - equivalent to 35/50w will do - again a make & economical source please?
A goggle suggests it may even be more economical to buy a new downlighter w ith driver and bulb - but that seems counter intuitive...
TIA
Jim K
When total costs are considered, one of these might be the easiest and cheapest options, so might be worth checking out:
"10W (50W Equivalent) Up to 80% energy saving MR16 GU5.3 Retrofit, 220-240V (compatible with 95% of dimmers and transformers) Instant Full Brightness, Colour Temperature 2700K Warm White Rated Lifetime 40,000 hours
36D Beam Angle"'Natural White' and 'Cool White' are also available.
Although it mantions 240V, these are 12V lamps.
Screwfux have 2 drivers £15 odd or £16 odd ?!! Toolsatan similar...
Anyone suggest a make to go for (or avoid) & a more economical source ?
For the LED bulb - equivalent to 35/50w will do - again a make & economical source please?
A goggle suggests it may even be more economical to buy a new downlighter with driver and bulb - but that seems counter intuitive...
Just swap it for a 230V GU10 LED and GU10 flylead.
I don't think you'll find an LED which can match a 35/50w MR16. They can just about get to 35W GU10, which is around half the light output of a 35W MR16.
Secondly, an MR16 (or GU10) LED of the required power is likely to have air vent heatsink through to the front, which will defeat the waterproofing against the front bezel.
I suspect that for a shower, you will need to buy a dedicated LED downlight (not a retrofit for MR16 or GU10 lamps), or you will need to use several of the retrofit type which can take the less powerful LEDs which don't need the heatsink vented through to the front.
snipped-for-privacy@cucumber.demon.co.uk (Andrew Gabriel) wrote in news:l6a7le$n1k$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:
I would go for a completely new dedicated LED fitting that is suitable for a shower. See this range:
I have one similar to one of these in my kitchen:
In a track light fitting with three other 50W halogens... its a very slightly higher colour temperature than the 12V halogen, but the light output (measured with a lux meter on the worktop below) is (surprisingly) actually slightly higher than the halogen it replaced. It might be the beam is a little more focussed - I have not checked with just one lamp running.
Yup, these do.
Depends also on why you want to change. The total "on time" for shower lights etc is not usually that high, so it would take a long time to break even in energy savings.
12v MR16 so new LED driver and LED bulb required?
mical source please?
hash=item3a8767d637
ter with driver and bulb - but that seems counter intuitive...
main reason is/was for heat reduction as is mounted in perspex ceiling pane l - old one has suffered a bit.
What's all this talk of heat from LEDs?? is it from the driver?(which presu mably is built in to GU10 replacements?) or from the actual LEDs themselves ?
Jim K
Mainly the LEDs themselves. Hence the package they are in is designed as a heatsink to keep them cool (er).
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