halide to LED

I have a corn lamp, it didn't last long. LEDs keep failing. keep having to replace individual ones.

Average Life: 45,000 Hours

After having quite a few LED bulbs fail in fairly light use after about a year, I treat these sorts of claims with a pinch of salt.

Most LEDs are rated at 100,000 hours on their own, and 50,000 hours inside a fitting. But most companies put them far too close together and they overheat. The only LED lights I've seen last for ages are ones that look like fluorescent tubes. The LEDs are well spaced out and never exceed body temperature.

Is this for a low bay fitting?

A decent 70w HMI has an output of about 5600 lumens.

Your LED claims 1700. Which is almost certainly optimistic.

That lamp is way less light output than a 70W metal halide - probably only around 1/3rd. Secondly, because the light source is not going to be in the position the luminare was designed for, it's likely the luminare optics are not going to direct as much light in the right direction. Thirdly, being a much bigger light source, it's likely to block much more of the reflected light from the rear than would be the case for a metal halide lamp, further reducing output.

I suspect you will be disappointed.

You will need something in the 50-60W power rating, and with light output directed (because the reflector isn't going to be very effective with a large opaque bulb fitted. Something more like:

TBH, I'm not sure it's worth changing the lamp to LED. If you really want to go LED, it would be better to change the luminare for an LED one, but you aren't likely to make any savings to pay for that if you are already using metal halide.

Its not going to be anywhere near as bright as the metal halide lamp.

How well ventilated is the fitting as a LED lamp doesn't like being much above warm.

Sorry for delay, been offline. It's actually for a thorn street lamp in a small yard which has burned out it's igniter board and blown the bulb.

Just looking to simplify the repair, I can live with lower output but need a long life because of LOLER requirements when changing lamp.

AJH

I can see this working with a bayonet fitting but with the screw would it end up pointing down?

I'll probably just replace the ballast and halide bulb then

AJH

Large LEDs do generate heat in their PS. You'd need to be sure the fitting allows the LED to run no hotter than it is designed to. But in my experience, many of the claims for LED life have to be taken with a pinch of salt - especially on a rareish type like this.

Notice you have to register it to get the 'free' 5 year warranty. Be interesting to see the conditions of this.

Take the top off the pole and fit a LED flood light? A good 30W one should be OK. If its a concrete pole you probably want to make a bracket and fix it with stainless banding.

You might want to consider a dual arc lamp, such as GE Superlife. One arc runs, until it dies, and then the other arc runs. It will cost more, but your relamping cost is probably much more than the parts.

Note, you don't want a dual arc grow lamp (that's something completely different - both arcs run together for different colours).

Well as your LED option is not a guarantee a longer life in this case then I would be looking at swapping the ballast and lamp or follow dennis suggestion of strapping a LED flood light below the existing head (swapping the head for a proper LED head sounds expensive).

BTW how does LOLER affect you on what I assume is private land? Is this a H&S mamagment requirement?

I presume that you never saw photo of my apprentice changing a lamp in a lamp post!

Was he monkeying around?

NT

Was that a subtle black joke :-)

How much bloody scaffolding do you need? What's wrong with a ladder? No wonder council tax is so high.

What would you lean the ladder on?

Er.... let me see. The lamppost?!?