Ladders

I need to buy a ladder, as I'm fed up of borrowing peoples - can anyone give me a steer on what kind of spec I should be looking for.
It will be for occasional use, with some work near the ridge of my roof - standard sized 3 bed house.
Also the perenniel question - where has the best prices?!
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There are two main standards, BSEN 131 and BS 2037. You'll also see Class 1, 2 and 3 mentioned. In summary:
Class 1 (industrial) - max static vertical load of 175kg (27.5 stone) Class 2 (now referred to as BSEN 131) - light trade use. Max static vertical load 10kg (23.5 stone) Class 3 (DIY/domestic) - max load 125kg (19 stone)
This max load is the combined load of the person and the tools/equipment he's taking up the ladders - I won't be impolite and ask what you weigh, but think what you're likely to be carrying up the ladders before you decide which Class to go for.
Some people talk about the duty rating of ladders which is a load rating given which takes into account how often they're used, general conditions etc, but this is misleading. A 23 stone guy will probably bend Class 3 ladders no matter how often they're used.
BS 2037 applies to Class 1 and 3. Nowadays BS EN131 is usually used instead of Class 2.
I can't give you price comparisons but B&Q and the other sheds seem cheap for ladders but that's because they're only likely to be Class 3. If you want Class 1 or 2 you need to go to a trade outlet like Mills (www.millsltd.com)
Hope this helps.
Phil
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Phil wrote:

Having tried ascending my mums "typical shed DIY class 3 ladder" I can attest to that! The ladder felt like it was very close to the point of permanent reshapement (of the ladder and perhaps me as well) and I am "only" 20 ish stone!

I bought a trade class triple extension ladder from Screwfix (model ELT330) which I have been very pleased with - very stable and comfortable to use. It extends to 7.4m, and they currently do it for 130 quid.
--
Cheers,

John.

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Get an aluminium extending ladder - which will fit in your garage when closed, but which extends to a great enough length to reach above gutter level. It should, of course, have rubber feet on the bottom. If possible, get one with D-shaped rungs - which have flat tops and are more comfortable than round ones. You may also find a clip-on stand-off bracket useful. This ensures that the top of the ladder is supported by the wall rather than the gutter - and is far more secure and less liable to slip.
If you want to climb onto the roof, you'll need an additional ladder with a ridge hook (if that's what it's called?) and wheels at one end. You carry this up the first ladder, push it up the roof on its wheels, and turn it over so that it hooks onto the ridge.
I've no idea about prices - my extending ladder which I bought 35 years ago is still going strong!
Roger
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Couldn't agree more. There are a number of devices on the market to stabilise ladders or adapt for uneven ground if you can't get someone to foot for you. Some aren't cheap - they could be two thirds the cost of the ladder itself, but compared to a broken neck it's got to be worth it.
Phil
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Think where you are going to store it and transport it. I have a really long ladder, and its a pain ...........
Rick
On 5 Nov 2003 05:24:59 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com (Quigs) wrote:

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