Eh? How to cable up new hob

[Tim Streater]

OK - as the old hob was slowly biting the dust (only 2.5 rings out of 4 work now), we bought a new induction one. This will require the cabinets to be modified as I think the existing hob doesn't really have enough clearance. That part looks easy enough.

Now, the electrics. When I last lifted the existing hob, it looked like the cable came out of the wall (tiled) and went into some kind of connector block inside the underneath of the hob. So after isolating it and separating the cable from the hob, one would have a cable with its three wires sticking out. But that is also just what the new hob has. It comes with a cable (no plug) which disappears into a hole in the underside, but this time with no evidence that one can get in there to disconnect it. Cable looks like it's a metre or so long.

This would appear to mean that some kind of heavy-duty choc-block (or equivalent) will be required to effect a legal connection (up to 20 amps is possible). What kind of connector box is required and does it have to be affixed to e.g. a wall or the cabinets, or can it just 'float' around provided it's placed so it won't be disturbed as drawers are opened and closed?

[DerbyBorn]

Tim Streater wrote in news:281120142224079771% [e-mail]:

[Tim Watts]

Yes - that is the usual way...

[Tricky Dicky]

If you need something in excess of 20A then you are going to need something like this to make the connection if you have not got one already in the ci rcuit.

If your original cable exits the wall at the back of your cabinet a surface mounted box can be used on the wall but you may have to make a suitable cu t out in the cabinet back panel. The cable from the hob is wired into the l oad terminals and there is usually a cord grip to hold it secure. Likewise the switch can be placed above work top level with either a surface or flus h back box. This will involve a bit more wiring and a cable from the switch will need to go to one of these.

Below the work top and then your hob is connected to this. It is necessary to be able to switch the power to the hob off in the case of a fault, so yo u cannot simply use a connector. If you already have a 45A switch before th e cable exits the wall then the above type of connector unit is all you nee d.

Richard

[Tony Bryer]

Connector plate as other post is the right way to do it. Have you got an isolation switch within 2m? (unless regs have changed)

[ARW]

The 60A juncton boxes have strain relief and so would be fine left floating. About £5 at electrical wholesalers.

[Robin]

Qn prompted by the thought that Wago connectors are rated for 85 degrees: do the manufacturer's instructions specify the temperature rating for any cable/flex under the hob?

[ARW]

Sometimes yes.

[Robin]

My sloppy drafting.

I had in mind that the last hob I helped fit simply specified the use of cord only - H05 IIRC - which was only rated to 70 degrees . So when the cord supplied wasn't long enough to allow it to be lifted out again easily we concluded we could extend it with Wago connectors and a Wago box to provide strain relief.

Did we sin?

[ARW]

Not IMHO

[Andy Burns]

Just searched to see the rated Amps of Wago connectors and noticed this result ...

The PDF has been deleted now, but did a Wago marketdroid get carried away and not realise that Wagoboxes are made by someone else?