Changing a loo!

[ryanjjones]

On gutting a room, will be ripping out existing loo & sink and replacing.

Currently, look fixed on floor. I plan to remove everything, leaving waste-pipe poking through floor, then board/tile the floor, then install new loo on the new tiles.

Now - I've never replaced a loo before...!

The waste pipe looks "standard" - and the loo has some plastic ducting from the base to the "permament" waste downpipe. Assume this just comes apart and leaves the wastepipe sticking up. And assume this is a standard size...! (House is c. 1991)

The pipe is close to the wall - about 75mm from CENTRE of pipe to the wall. (e.g. pipe is perhaps 5-10mm from wall)

Planning to replace with

here: )

From my interpretation of this plan, this will fit quite nicely onto

the existing waste pipe. The dimensions mention 102 bore soil pipe - so assume this is the standard fitting.

And I assume everything will just plug in and work.

Now I like learning on the job - but are there any gotcha's or "DOH's" that I need to be aware of - or is replacing a loo like falling off a ladder (ahem)

Thanks

RJ

[The Natural Philosopher]

Yes. All loo joints always leak.

Invest in quantities of coffee, tranquillisers and silicone mastic.

Ultimately application of all of thee to the appriopate places will result ina drip free installation.

[m__murray]

I've done 3 - MOST important tool is a piece of piece of black plastic

- approx 15 inches diameter, and some tape.

Take the old loo off and tape the plastic over the hole - stops the pong.

I would expect so. The couplers have multiple seals and do a 98% job on first fit. They also don't require to the mm accuracy.

"DOH's"

DON'T try to re-use the couplers. This is not for any technical reason, but the spaces between the seals will be (literally) full of old sh*t. I strongly suggest that the old one is wrapped securely in a bag (check that it doesn't have 'child-friendly breathing holes' first) immediately on removal. Your stomach may be stronger than mine, but I considered the =A35 (?) very good value, in exchange for not cleaning the old one !

Keep us posted & good luck, M=2E

[manatbandq]

Go for it, I've just done similar.

Some might leak sometimes.

Lot's of tea, none of the others.

Mine was also a first time loo change. replacing the original in a 1973 house. Buy one of every shape and size of pan connector and extension piece from B&Q and keep the reciept. Look up "pan connector" on the screwfix site to see some examples. They just push together and mine don't leak. When your done, take back what you didn't use and get a full refund.

MBQ

[manatbandq]

plastic

Cling film and elastic bands worked in my case.

reason,

I was surprised at how clean everything was. I did use a good dose of bleach and a flushed a few times before I started.

MBQ

[ryanjjones]

All good advice and taken on board.

Biggest problem (for loo and sink/taps/shower/shower tray) is knowing what they give you in the box!

[The Natural Philosopher]

Mostly a load of plastic washers that don't seal. Silicone is your friend. Discard all plastic washers.

[m__murray]

knowing

... and buy a tub of 'Plumbers Mait' (spelling correct, dispite first impressions!). Its a 'doesn't stick to your hands, sticks to itself, non-hardening, sealant'. (I'm sure someone will leap in with technical terms)

Magic stuff. (IMO)

M.

[Christian McArdle]

I've never managed to get it to do anything useful, though. After several attempts, I usually remove all traces of mait and empty a tube of silicon into the joint and bung it all together. I don't care if this isn't the "correct way", it works every time!

Christian.

[Old Bill]

What are you guys doing? I've never had to use any kind of sealing compound to connect a bog and I've done quite a few Getting back OP's post, if waste pipe is coming vertically out of floor then the type of bog shown in the pic may be difficult/impossible to fit. Often they have a bar of ceramic across the back which is in the way of the pipe. i.e. they are really designed for where the pipe is coming horizontally out of a wall. Some pros angle-grind the ceramic bit off but I wouldn't risk it. Even if it can be fitted with e.g. 90deg bend it may be the wrong distance from the wall for the cistern to screwed to it without a wooden spacer which looks naff and then the bog door will hit the pan. For this situation you can't beat looking/measuring the location, then going to plumbers merchants at looking what they have that might work.

[Christian McArdle]

Clearly you buy better quality stuff than I. When I've bought a toilet or Belfast sink, the mouldings have been less than precise in their dimensions and smoothness. No washer in the world would seal on some of those connections without help.

Note that I've never had to put any around the soil pipe exit. The pan connector has always been sufficient. However, the flush pipe to pan connection has given me problems, as has connecting the waste to a Belfast sink, with very visible undulations on the mating surface (i.e. 2mm or so).

Christian.

[The Natural Philosopher]

My experience too. And if there is any mislaignment in the loo to soil pipoe, you often need sealer there too.