Hi
I want to remove my combined light & hsver socket in the bathroom with a simple shaver socket. I've seen two different sockets in B&Q, the smaller (1 gang) one states that it is unsuitable for bathrooms.. any idea why? The larger (2 gang) one is suitable for bathrooms but needs a 47mm box. I have a new house and therefore the wall I want to put it into is plasterboard. My problem is I don't know where I can get a 47mm Dry Lining box.. and suggestions?
Thanks
Brad
The big version contains an isolating transformer that stops you getting fried. You MUST have that type, although if spacing is tight, you may be able to find a separate isolating transformer that can be tucked away under the bath/in a cupboard and use the thin faceplate on the wall.
I don't use dry lining boxes usually. I prefer to attach metal boxes to a wooden noggin, although fitting this may disrupt the decoration, as you would need to remove and replace a large portion of plasterboard. Not a problem if you intend to tile afterwards.
Christian.
Is the plasterboard on a wooden frame, or is it a conventional cavity wall with the plasterboard stuck to the inner layer with dabs. If the latter, if you cut a box-sized hole in the plasterboard, you can probably screw a 47mm metal box to the blockwork behind. [You may have to recess the blockwork slightly, depending on the gap].
I would imagine that it is not fed via a transformer, and hence has no form of isolation from the 230v supply. You need a shaver socket with a built in transformer for use in the bathroom.
The smaller one is unlikely to contain an isolating transformer, and therefore would be dangerous if used in an environment containing water / moisture etc.
If you can't get hold of a 47mm dry lining box, have you thought of using a shallower one in conjunction with an 'extension piece' on the surface? So you would have the socket (say) 16mm proud on the surface, and 35mm behind.
HTH,
Jonathan
On Thu, 8 Apr 2004 10:55:28 +0000 (UTC), in uk.d-i-y "Brad" strung together this:
As others have said, the llargewr has a transformer in it.
Any (most) electrical wholesalers should stock them, I've never had trouble getting hold of them.
I don't like dry lining boxes - they show round the edge of the accessory.
Fix some scrap wood battens - say roughly 1 x 1" either side of the hole on the back of the plasterboard using brass screws and screw the metal box to these - it will give a far stronger fixing than dry lined ones.
I've thought about that, but the problem is, what do you use for the extension piece? If you intend to butcher a surface box you have to be very careful a: not to break it and b: to get the holes lined up correctly as you are screwing through a threaded piece into a threaded piece :-)
On the other hand:
TLC item MT MDLB4: 2 gang 45mm deep dry lining box £1.75 +VAT
Hwyl!
M.
On Thu, 08 Apr 2004 21:24:30 +0100, in uk.d-i-y Martin Angove strung together this:
Er, I think you'd probably use an 'extension piece'. I'm sure there is a technical term but they are a standard part readily(-ish) available. I think MK did them, and probably others.
On Thu, 08 Apr 2004 20:43:36 +0100, in uk.d-i-y Dave Plowman strung together this:
Depends what boxes you use with which accessories. Some are awful, some you can't see. But in general, as you say, a metal box is the better method if possible.
A variation to this option: get some short wooden battens the right thickness to pack between the back of the box and the board on the other side of the partition. Stick these to the board with nomorenails or similar, then screw galv box to battens.
Needs the thickness of that wood to be reasonably accurate, and there's the chance it will pull off the plasterboard. My way is as strong as the plasterboard itself.
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