a toilet's stability

Page 1 of 2  

Where should a floor mounted toilet get most of its stability from? Is it where it primarily from being bolted down or is the grout a significant factor in its stability?
Thanks in advance,
Chris
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Excellent question. The toilet or water closet stays on the floor by its own weight and the person sitting on it.
The gasket is a seal to keep gases out and help the siphon action. The flange bolts are to act as help in sealing and a place holder. They are hand tightened only. The grout/calk is there to keep water from getting in and then bacteria would form in there giving unpleasant odors.
Heavy people are always a problem with water closets.
Where should a floor mounted toilet get most of its stability from? Is it where it primarily from being bolted down or is the grout a significant factor in its stability?
Thanks in advance,
Chris
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Well if you have a great solution for fat people, let me know.
My brother-in-law weighs a solid 500-lbs. I go over there fairly frequently to "fix" the toilet. And I've tried damn near everything I can think of to keep that bitch solid to the floor.
I don't know what the hell the dude does in there. I don't know if he sits in there and rocks back and forth or swivels his hips are what the fuck the guy is doing in there. I've been over there more than once where the bead of silicone has been torn from the floor as the whole water closet shifted.
Maybe I should just install a "squatter" and be done with the whole thing. either that or I could install a shower with a 4" trap and just tell him to step into the shower and squeeze it right onto the floor.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
This may be what you need.
http://greatjohn.com/grjodi.html
"Blackbeard" <michael_curtis_you

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Its a fancy prison or jail type toilet. Looks good to me. Go with cost, stainless steel or this one.
Its 17 1/2 " I like that, it be nice if they were higher tho...

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
A prison toilet BB.
We talked some ruffneck bars into putting them in.
II'll tell you what tho....even some guys can rip them off a wall.
Well if you have a great solution for fat people, let me know.
My brother-in-law weighs a solid 500-lbs. I go over there fairly frequently to "fix" the toilet. And I've tried damn near everything I can think of to keep that bitch solid to the floor.
I don't know what the hell the dude does in there. I don't know if he sits in there and rocks back and forth or swivels his hips are what the fuck the guy is doing in there. I've been over there more than once where the bead of silicone has been torn from the floor as the whole water closet shifted.
Maybe I should just install a "squatter" and be done with the whole thing. either that or I could install a shower with a 4" trap and just tell him to step into the shower and squeeze it right onto the floor.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Try building a substantial wooden box around the toilet and mount a toilet seat onto that surface (over a hole of course). Surround the alcove/box with some heavy duty grab bars and you have something. The trick is to not let the fat guy actually sit on the toilet ( I imagine an outhouse bench over a real toilet). Make sure to hinge the top and front so it can be cleaned. He can even put a carved wooden backrest behind it and call it a throne.
500lbs! your're gonna need 4X4 construction unless you can weld steel. It may be possible to build off of the wall studs.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
"Red Jacket The Laughing Indian !"
I don't know about everyone else, but I crank toilet bolts pretty tight.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
That's Ok mike, you do everything wrong <G>
"Red Jacket The Laughing Indian !"
I don't know about everyone else, but I crank toilet bolts pretty tight.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
i tighten the bolts pretty tight too. if the toilet rocks ill double up on the wax rings (like on tile floor) and sometimes even shim it if bad enough. sometimes I have had to lag screw the toilet to floor to make it stable enough.
wrote in message

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I personally guarantee you that if you level the toilet properly (think 4 corners) that you will not have to excessively tighten or use lag screws. I know that some folks use "wobble wedges" and other such products but it is very difficult to beat plain old sheet lead. (pieces of flashing) It's flat, it doesn't rust or rot, and it is easy shape. Dry set the toilet (without wax) and level to a point where the toilet does not rock without any closet bolts. Make sure the lead is in the locations where it needs to be and lift the bowl straight up while making sure the lead remains on the floor and in the locations where it belongs. Set your wax ring and lower the bowl onto the lead shims. Tighten "carefully".
Bob Wheatley
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
"Bob Wheatley"
Realizing I'm asking a my guru, have you ever met a plumber who actually broke a toilet by tightening the closet bolts too tight? I never have.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Yes sir I have. Actually....I broke one myself back in '79 despite being taught better by my dad. I have seen a handful since then..... Any time you have a situation where the china is suspended or is unsupported above the closet bolts and you over-tighten you are asking for the bowl to break. Although I must admit that I have seen more tanks broken than bowls, it is a fact that either can be broken if over tightened.
Bob Wheatley
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I over did the flange bolts, sometime later the porcelin broke. My Dad taught me same same Bob.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I use rubber rings on tile. See, I'm a pro.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I have broken a couple of them. I use plastic wedges not lead. I have a plastic washer as normal on tile or anything else, I use 2 wax rings if tile is very irregular and if bad enough i use my plastic wedges. This is a better option because #1 plastic is not deadly and #2 plastic does not compress as easily. I never use rubber here.
wrote in message

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

The primary reason I do not allow my men to use "wobble wedges" is because most guys just push the toilet down to the floor and then start pushing the wedges in until the toilet is level. The problem with that should be obvious. When you push wedges or washers in _after_ the toilet has been lowered to the floor, you are _raising_ the bottom of the bowl. Unless y'all are using some sort of space aged wax that I don't know about you are leaving a broken seal. Think about it, wax has zero elasticity. When you compress it, it does not re-expand to fill it's former shape. Once a toilet has been pushed down to the floor and you lift it, you are leaving the wax behind. That's why I described the traditional (and correct) method of dry setting and pre-leveling.
Bob Wheatley
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I never said to push wedges under toilet after the fact. I said I don't like lead because it changes shape or compresses which makes it hard to fit just right and its toxic (we try to be green here). I level toilet mark wedges then cut my wedges so they don't stick out past my (required by code) bead of silicone.
When you work with some of the more fancy tiles you will see that sometimes you are looking at over a 1/4 inch difference in elevations. I do not install the toilet slanted, I level it up. I use 1 wax ring with horn and one without. This has always worked well for us. I have not warmed up to the waxless seals which on paper look like a good choice for tile.
also I think the wax does move and stretch a bit. I agree that you want to try not to lift the toilet too much but a fresh wax ring will move a good 1/8 inch. ( This is only a guess from experience; never done a controlled test)
I think we agree in general I just like to use plastic instead of lead. (on boats we used bedding compound)
I did one time have to make my own cement platform that they tiled up to. The tile was one giant tile actually poured in place. They covered floor with white rocks; small ones.(like 1/2") roundish. then poured green colored epoxy into floor, the green when dry was see-through but green. This would have been hard to level with wedges so I recommended that I pour a mini-slab the exact footprint of toilet. This also solved their other concern of being able to see plumbing around edge of toilet. The outside of the cement was painted white. My finish job looks like the toilet just disappears into the floor.
Ever heard of frit ??

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
"Bob Wheatley"

While we're on that subject, I've run into this problem with the "no-seep" rings with the insert. It seems like when you're forced to put the closet collar on the finished floor, some brands of toilets hit the insert with the horn before the base hits the floor. Does anyone else run into this?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Are you using them with plastic flanges? I only use brass.
Bob Wheatley
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.