You have it backwards Harry. Right side had right nuts. Left side had left nuts an ALL chrysler cars up untill about 1970. For sure by 1972 the left hand nuts were GONE form Chrysler compact and intermediates as well as full sized passenger vehicles. Still used on some heavy duty trucks right up to the end (chrysler trucks became freightliner)
Many trailers were built with old Mopar and AMC axles and spindles - and nothing stopping some KLUTZ from installing the axle in reverse. Look for the "L" stamped in the middle of the stud, and on the nut (hard to see when they are badly rusted)
About 1982, an uncle who'd been an Air Force enlisted mechanic 30 years and an Air Force civilian mechanic beyond that, saw me using a 3/8" ratchet with a 7/16" socket to put a water pump on a 1964 Wildcat. He said I was overtorquing.
I should have groveled with my forehead in the gravel at his feet because I knew immediately he was right. Usually, combination wrenches were sized so that what felt comfortable was probably the right torque, but that didn't work with a socket set. I began to pay attention to the feel of a sudden increase in stiffness after the intended stretch in the fastener was taken up.
When I replaced my HVAC thermostat, the terminal screws looked like #1 Phillips, but no #1 Phillips screwdriver I had would go through the holes to reach the screws. So I used a #0. When I tested the connections by tugging wires, they came loose. The screwdriver fit was sloppy enough that I couldn't feel the screws seat. The screws also had slots, but no screwdriver I found gave a good fit.
Later, I found a 9/64" flat blade that fit perfectly. With it, I could feel when the screws seated.
I used to carry Phillips and Reed & Prince screwdrivers in my tool box. They looked the same but weren't. With just the right driver, I could get more torque, and I could feel when a screw seated.
Mine weren't rusty. I guess I heated the last one to about 150 F, and it broke loose (with an extender pipe on the cruciform wrench).
I guess that little bit of heating was like loosening it a fraction of an degree with a wrench. I guess when a nut has been tightened beyond its designed elasticity, a fraction of a degree can mean a huge reduction in tension.
This was summer. The Subaru dealer told me that tires were inflated higher at factory as in shipping and storage they did not want to have to add pressure if needed. Guess you could also blame dealer in not setting to specs.
Depending on the car, and the tire, and your driving style, an extra
10PSI MAY be called for. If you take ramps at speed wirh a Toyota Sienna 10 expra PSI in the front will more than double the miles you get out of the original tires, as well as improving handling markedly. Hard cornering takes off both outer edges at specified pressure, and gives excessive understeer.
I had a 66 Valiant 225 slant 6. Good car. I had a shade tree mechanic do some work on it. He told me the left side studs were all rusted. He broke off all 12 of them. You would have thought that he would have thought a little harder after just a couple of them.
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