I bought tires a couple of months ago. Yesterday I tried to remove a
wheel to check the bearing. The nuts wouldn't budge.
They're supposed to be torqued to about 65 foot-pounds. After letting
penetrating oil work overnight, I got 15 of the 16 nuts with a cruciform
wrench with 10" arms. I used a pipe to extend one arm and stood on the
I believe I'm applying well over 200 foot-pounds. The wrench twists so
far that I think more force would be dangerous. I'll see what tools
neighbors have, or maybe go to a mechanic.
Can I have the dealer and his crew sent to prison?
On 9/24/14, 1:31 AM, email@example.com wrote:
for impact wrenches. I understand one advantage is that if you hammer
on the breaker bar, the socket will transmit shock to the wheel around
the nut. It seems to transmit the shock pretty well but hasn't worked
My BIL has a 3/4" set. I used to use it on farm equipment. That might
Dadblamed tired dealer! I wonder if the lugs and nuts are permanently
damaged from the stress.
Wow, that must be tight. Are you pressing down on the wrench, to the
left of the lug? I find that works, compared to lifting up to the right.
On lug nuts. If the wheels are aluminum, the tire places
want to recheck the lugs after 25 to 50 miles. This is a
real concern. I did a rear wheel brake pad slap one time,
and figured they were fine. Two days later, I had a rather
serious shake. Took it to my garage, and he noted that
the right front tire was out of round. On the way to the
junkyard to get another tire, the left rear fell off.
Mechanic had not asked if I did anything to the wheels
lately "Well, replace brake pads in the back" and had
not pulled the snap caps to see if the lugs were tight.
I share the blame, I didn't recheck torque after 50 miles.
Years ago, someone mentioned the hot wax method. When a nut
and bolt is rotted on, the trick to heat it up with a torch.
Of course, mechanics the world around use heat. But the
trick is as it's cooling, light a candle and drip wax onto
the thread. At first, the wax disappears into vapor. But as
it cools, it gets to the magic temperature. The wax sucks
into the threads, and acts as a lubricant. Wax is slippery,
try rubbing a candle some time, to see for yourself.
I've not tried this, though I have wondered if there is
any truth to this. I'd really love to know if this
works or not. Please try it, just to humor an old man.
BTW, I did try soaking a totally rusted pair of fence
pliers in concentrated hydrochloric acid. It did eat
the rust off, and now I've got a working pair of pliers.
I never thought that would work.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
I accidently misplaced my very expensive Krauter electric pliers outside,
then found them a year later seized solid. just kept them mourning their
loss. Then, after watching the 'remetallization' process our Brulin's
quaternary sanitizer was doing [Unicide 256] soaked the pliers in the
compound,not only did some/much of the rust turn back into metal, but the
pliers started to open very stiffly. Kept working on them and now have my
Have you ever tried Whink [mild hydrofluoric acid] to remove rust? Be sure
to wear gloves! Eats under your fingernails, but you don't realize it
until an hour later when it feels like your nails are being constantly
ripped off. So mild doesn't do much damage to porcelain - tried to etch
glass and it won't.
Nice to know some thing works.
As for HF acid, I refuse to get near the stuff.
Some HVAC guys use that on coils, since they
end up looking shiny and bright. I like the
alkaline cleaner, which works nicely.
Next time, try phosphoric acid. You can find it in the masonry section of a
big box store since it's used to etch concrete. The advantages are that it
will attack rust and not the underlying metal so you can leave the item in
the acid without worrying and it leaves a phosphate coating that inhibits
rust. With hydrochloric, you have a super clean, etched surface that will
rust in front of your eyes if you don't get some sort of protective barrier
If you read the ingredients in Coke, you'll find phosphoric acid which is
probably why it's alleged to be a rust remover. I wouldn't drink the stuff
straight but it's far less aggressive than hydorchloric.
HCL did the job, I had some on hand, and
the experiment was a success. Why would I
try some thing different? Does phosphoric
work better? I guess you do mention a
couple advantages. I put some oil on the
fence pliers, and they are still good.
I once had a 3-year-old license plate that was badly pitted with rust.
Naval jelly, red lead, white enamel, black enamel for the lettering.
Still perfect 10 years later. If I ever get put in the state pen, I
want to be on the license plate team!
Vinegar can remove rust.
I use it in motorcycle gas tanks. The older ones are prone to rusting but
can often be salvaged with a inner coat of epoxy. The idea is to remove the
rust and not eat through the tank. With phosphoric, you can fill it up and
leave it for a week or two with no problems.
If you neutralize the phosphoric acid with sodium hydroxide, you'll wind
with sodium phosphate and water. That's an excellent preparation for
cleansing your colon. (don't try this at home, kiddies)
between naval jelly and navel jelly. Navel jelly is the stuff you put
on English muffins.
Amazon says the list price for 16 ounces of Loctite Naval Jelly is
$6.29, and the list price for 32 ounces of Duda Diesel Phosphoric Acid
There might be an opening in Deer Lodge. When I registered a bike last
spring they gave me a xerox reduction of a temporary car tag and told me to
tape it to something. Seems there was a statewide shortage of motorcycle
You're not making CocaCola so you don't need food grade acid:
Naval Jelly has its place if you're doing spot rust removal where the thick
consistency is helpful. If you're dumping a bunch of rusty items into an
acid bath or, conversely, filling a rusty tank the liquid is better.
I'm not Paul Allen; I can't afford a tank although one would be fun.
Ironic. Allen is vocal about gun control and he wants to buy a tank. I guess
it's just hoi polloi that shouldn't be armed.
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