rod there
Normally yes,, but in this case he needs to know he has the full 117 volts. The neon will light with 40volts or less and it can even be hard to judge how bright a light bulb should be when it has no shade.
Yes, probably has one. Those two would be all or nothing at all.
Of course maybe the thing is not hot at all anymore, and it just feels hot because they expect it to be hot.
If a thermal fuse is burnt out, from overheating, they sell replacements for each temperature. If the old one isn't too bad, you can read the temp off the old one, but probably not.
And then there is connecting it to the circuit. Can't be soldered iiuc because it will overheat in the process. Has to be crimped. I have a crimper or I could use the rear side of wire cutters, but I don't have the right thing that goes around it and is small enough.
Suggestions.
I was just fiddling around with something I didnt' buy and didn't really need, so I threw it away.
I usually check the element for continuity, using a VOM.
In addition to check for voltage.
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus
You've verified that you have 120V present at the heating element, ie that it's not the thermostat or something else that's faulty? In my experience, it's more often something other than the heating element itself.
Have you used a VOM before? Most folks who have used one, still own one from some where.
HF has cheap VOM, and also Walmart, in the automotive section.
Sounds like time to find someone who has electrical troubleshooting skill, and call for help. In person, not just on a usenet group.
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus
I need a voltage meter. I heard that harbor freight has one for 10 bucks. I will check on it now.
And, someone with electrical troubleshooting skill would have determined that, already.
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus
Looks likely a thermal cutoff under the black insulation.
Greg
Well, don't be absolutely positive about that w/o checking...I _think_ it's possible for the element to have an internal break so only a lead portion is heating. This would be easy enough to tell...
The obvious first step is to do the diagnostics, indeed...
How is the element removed? It almost looks as though the alloy casting is crimped around it every 2" or so - is it actually designed to come out (without grinding the casting and then having to find some way of securing the replacement element again after)?
cheers
Jules
Jules Richardson wrote in news:jkddfo$f7o$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:
Ah, that is a genuin chuck away piece of hardware. If the element is broken, it is not ment to be repaired. In most cases I have seen, it was not the heating tube, but the thermostat switch, or the over-temp protection element. The last one is most critical, it ages, and when it breaks, you have to get a new one. It looks like a small metal cylinder(3mmX12mm) in one of the feeding wires.
Looks to me like you drill out the rivets that attach the brackets to the heat coil, then slide the heat coil out of the grove.
Did I read that the problem is, it doesn't get hot enough? If that coil is not broken, I don't think replacing it will be a cure.
How about the energy source?
That could be it. The heater could be designed to only work with electricity from a nuke and he's trying to use hydro or coal based electricity.
Yeah, okay.
I meant whatever components this thing has between the coil and the wall plug. If there are any other than the switch.
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