OT changing the oil

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I know there are auto groups, but I don't hang out in any of them. It's time to change the oil in the car again. I've always run the engine until it's hot before I do it, and then I burn the fuck out of my hands trying to get the damn filter out of its nest in the exhaust header. (thanks, toyota, for that engineering stroke of genius)
I'm thinking of saying to hell with it, and changing it cold (It's 64 outside now.) How sacrilegious would that be, do you guys think?
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On Wed, 13 Oct 2010 05:49:48 -0700, Smitty Two wrote:

OK, that made me chuckle. I feel your pain. Plus on our Avalon the filter's at such an angle that it never drains - but once unscrewed it's almost impossible not to tip it while pulling it from the engine bay, resulting in oil pouring out all over the exhaust.

I think you'll be fine - any crap in the sump (or trapped in the filter) will still be gone, and what little residual oil gets left in the system is insignificant compared to the amount of fresh oil that you're putting in.
cheers
Jules
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I really do prefer to change oil hot. I don't have any cars that have the issue you describe, but I can certainly imagine it. I think Mechanix Wear (same people that make the nice gloves) sell sleeve things for just this purpose. Seems silly to put them on just for an oil change, but if it works...
nate
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It's not really necessary. the oil is still pretty thin at that temp. (multi-viscosity oils like 5W30 are thin when cold,thicken as they heat up)
I use drive up ramps and wheel chocks.
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Jim Yanik
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It's

Dodge Cummins diesel engines have one that you have to have a filter wrench that's on the end of a long rod, and then you have to put it in there just right, going around major steering components.
Why is it that the engineering and design people cannot put these things where they would be simple to reach? Like the old Chevies? I really think Anton Duntov actually thought ahead when he designed the '55 Chevy motor thinking of the guys who would work on them.
Engineers and designers should have to do a scheduled maintenance on EVERY car they design before it is released for production. Hell, you have to go buy special wrenches in some cases.
Steve
Heart surgery pending? Read up and prepare. Learn how to care for a friend. http://cabgbypasssurgery.com
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On Wed, 13 Oct 2010 07:46:47 -0700, "Steve B"

I think you mean Zora Arkus-Duntov, not Anton. He also did not design the '55 Chevy motor, that was done by another staff of engineers. Zora did however perform tests and improve the performance of the Chevrolet V8 for its use in the Corvette.
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wrote:

I just saw a PBS show Saturday;"Great Cars",on the Corvette. Duntov was the one who had the V-8 put into the Corvette to improve performance.
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Jim Yanik
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Because the engineers and designers are employed by the same company that wants the owners to take them to the dealership for service. They want to make money in the service dept as well.
Rob
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On 10/13/2010 10:58 AM, rlz wrote:

Having been a ASE certified master mechanic since '78, it is MY personal opinion that the so called "designers" and "engineers" are all on drugs and have never been close to the finished product. I don't thing any of the "designers" and "engineers" are normal by any stretch of the imagination.
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Steve Barker
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And if it was raining you could get in the engine compartment, bring in a droplight and close the hood.
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p.s. ,,,providing you hadn't tossed in a 427 yet.
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On Wed, 13 Oct 2010 19:27:43 +0000, Red Green wrote:

Heh :-) We've got a '67 F100 with the straight-6 and it's like that - huge amounts of space in the bay. I've been known to the l/h inner wheel- arch with my legs dangling in the bay when I'm working on it.
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wrote:

filter adapter groove before installing the can with the new gasket!!!!!!!!
The spin-on filter was the greatest improvement in serviceability in the history of the SBC
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snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote the following:

I rather liked the old style where the filter cannister sat just to the side of the engine near the top. A bolt held the cap on. Just take the bolt out, remove the cover and dirty filter, and replace it with a new filter Anyone with a fuel oil burner knows that type of fuel line filter.
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Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
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wrote:

than nothing, they were not a very good solution as far as engine protection is concerned.
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My V-6 Hyundai 3.3 has a top filter canister. You have to remove a shroud to see it. Last time I change oil myself was on my '91 Regal. It was a real PITA so I've not done once since. For the three times a year in needs changing, I'm willing to pay these days.
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My problem is that I don't trust any of the oil change places to do a correct job. I have found several times when they did something wrong, either underfilling, overfilling, not tightening the filter or drain plug, etc. Now I do both our Mazda Protoge' and Nissan Pathfinder and know it is being done correctly. When I get somewhat older, currently 74, I'll pay my son to do the job for me. But as long as I can crawl under the jacked-up vehicles, with jackstands, and then get back out and stand up again, I will do it myself.
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Agree about the oil change places. The guy I use is a radiator repair shop and oil is a sideline for him. He takes his time and does it right and I can watch him do it. I'd never go to a Jiffy Lube.
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But, are you sure you're doing it right? Be a shame to waste all these years.
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On Oct 14, 3:37pm, "Stormin Mormon"

glegroups.com...
I know enough to change the oil after the vehicle has been running a while, so that the heated oil is thinner and drains more completely, I know enough to tilt the car to one side so that the crankcase drains more completely, I use a quality oil filter and know the brand of oil I am putting in, and our local recycle center will take the old oil. Also, it is just as fast as driving to the nearest oil change place. What am I missing???
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