I have a 2-1/2 car garage built in the 1940's It is all brick and heavy wood, insulation and paneling. The attic is a walk-in type and is also insulated.
The wiring is also 1940's...
This winter I plan on starting from scratch on the wiring, and rip out the paneling.
I think due to the location and build of the garage it is prone to sweating in the spring and summer. I will add some ventilation and a heater (working on now)
I am a bit leary of drywall due to the moisture. Any other cost effective options to finish the ceiling and walls after I am done with the wiring?
If the paneling is in basically good shape and not horrific to look at, I'd be inclined to disconnect the existing wiring, and abandon it in place, and rewire with conduit on the surface. Cover the old boxes with blank plates or the new boxes. Much easier to modify down the road, if you or the next owner want to use the garage as a shop. It's a garage, after all. Exposed wiring is not at all out of place. Being a garage, there are likely to be all sorts of things living in those walls you would rather not know about.
What sort of paneling is it anyway?1940s would likely have been T&G. If it is the thin stuff that was popular in the 50s and 60s, no loss, but T&G is about the best garage wall you can have.
I have no clue, it happens on humid days. I think because the garage is so well insulated it keeps cold, and when I open the door and let the warm humid air in it sweats.
In that case, I'd do some shopping, and build back with T&G, if I could find a cheap source for it. Sometimes the stuff that is lower-grade than people put in their rec rooms and saunas is available at a tolerable price. 'Car siding' is what to ask for. Also a lot easier to install than drywall, IMHO. Just get the starter row straight, and work out from there. Is the brick veneer, or structural? If the paneling is 1960s, the wiring (or part of it) may be as well. You are right, drywall is the wrong thing for a garage with moisture issues, and OSB would be as well. The non-paper drywall they sell for bathrooms would work, but that stuff is pricey enough that T&G may be cheaper. Great thing about T&G is that you can hang stuff anywhere.
Do you like the looks of pole barn siding? I put up the metal siding that is used for pole barns on the walls and ceiling. You can get it in different colors, it is ordered within an inch of the length you need and I didn't have to tape any joints, nor paint. Install and you're done and it can be washed off easily.
I thought about recommending that, but he wants to bury the wiring in the wall. That stuff is a pain to install around electrical boxes. Plus, he already said he has condensation problems- metal walls will just make that worse.
If the T&G does not cost alot that is what I would prefer...
I can tell you right now T&G will be more costly than drywall ..The ceiling of the garage however , will NEED to be 5/8 Type X drywall as it has a room over it.....Same goes for the wall between the house and garage if attached...You can put your T&G over the drywall on the fire wall AFTER it has been fire taped but I'd finish tape the ceiling.......
I ripped the side wall apart this weekend. From the inside out, studs, 12" wide tongue and groove at 45 degree angle, tar paper then red brick. All of the wood looks good, the paneling and insulation was from the
60's - it is all going in the trash.
I am now planing on drywall everywhere. Any benefit to using the moisture type drywall in bathrooms? Or just go with standard 5/8" and a good coat of paint. I will be adding a furnace and correcting ventilation issues. I have a new ridge vent in the roof, but little soffit vents, that look to be clogged with insulation. This will hopefully fix my moisture issues.
Unless there is a frequently used shower you don't "need " MR sheetrock in a bathroom...Code may say otherwise however...The only place you need 5/8 Type X sheetrock is the ceiling of the garage and the wall between the house and garage...The rest can be half inch...Cheaper and MUCH easier to handle and install...LOL...Good luck...
Why is 5/8" called out on the ceilings? I already have wood strips every 16" in both directions. I was not planning on removing the ceiling, just drywalling over the existing.
Because you have living space over the garage the ceiling in the garage has to be 5/8 Type X Fire Code Sheetrock for fire protection for the living space above...Same goes for the wall between the garage and house IF attached for the same reasons...Both your insurance company and Fire Code requires it.......No ifs , ands or buts....
Code doesn't require 5/8" Firecode ceiling in a detached garage with an attic over it. Code only kicks in with the ceiling rating if there is a habitable room up there.
From the IRC: HABITABLE SPACE. A space in a building for living, sleeping, eating or cooking. Bathrooms, toilet rooms, closets, halls, storage or utility spaces and similar areas are not considered habitable spaces.
If there's no heating/plumbing/windows in the attic, it's not a habitable room as far as the code requirement.
Hmmm. I just replied to Benick's post about the fire-rating. It's unclear from your posts whether the bathroom and heating is for the first floor, attic, or both.
You were asking about the garage and the work you were planning on doing in there, and made an aside about the attic over it. Then you mention working on adding a furnace and improving the ventilation. If you're doing that to make the garage habitable, you don't need a fire- rated ceiling. If the attic is storage space you don't need the fire- rated ceiling. If the attic has no windows, it is not a legal bedroom and not habitable in that sense. See my previous post for the definition of habitable space.
If you/yours are planning on spending time in the attic, and it will function as anything other than a storage/utility space, it probably would be designated as a habitable room. In that case, I agree with the B, and it would be better to be safe than sorry. Liability issues and all.
Funny thing - you could put a bathroom upstairs and the rated ceiling thing still wouldn't kick in as it's not considered a habitable room. It's also probably a remote chance that you'd burn to death while taking a shower, but, you never know. ;)
So I am set on standard 1/2" drywall for the entire garage.
Improving the ventilation is to correct the condensation issues. Water is for a sink and brewing beer (there is an existing drain the garage floor - looks like an old toliet drain (from the 1940's) Heater is to heat the garage - while I brew beer or keep wife's car toasty Wood burner is to boil water Attic is for storing X-mas crap Attic has a window Attic has proper ridge vent (new roof) Attic has old improper soffit vents (from 1940's) Attic has a pull down stairs for access Attic has no floor! Garage is 75 feet away from house - separated by driveway.
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