I have a Kenmore gas dryer #110.87873100.
When I push the start button I get a sound as if the dryer is trying to work, but the drum will not turn or turns ver little at a certain point the dryer will shut off and you can smell an electrical burnt odor. If you unplug it, leave it go for 20 minutes or so sometimes the dryer will start right up like there was never a problem.
The belt and the guide rollers in back are intact and in working order.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Chuck
If it were my dryer, I would remove the cover and try to locate the exact source of the burining electrical stuff. If it's the motor then you will need to start shopping for a new dryer. Replacement motors cost well over $100 for most washers and dryers.
I'm in agreement with you here. That's the easiest way to determine the problem. and I would do it soon before it catches fire.
I don't know how old that dryer is, but a Sears motor for it is $90.
OTOH- If the dryer is more than a few years old you might save money buying a newer more efficient one.
Jim
Sounds like it might be the motor windings are partly burnt out; so depending on where the motor stops it may or may not restart next time! Wonder it hasn't tripped the circuit breaker or caught fire! Terry.
Jim,
I appreciate yours and all of the other responses
The dryer is almost 14 years old, IYHO is it worth getting another motor? The dryer will also need front and back seals for the drum too.
-snip-
Only you can make that decision. I have a gas dryer about that vintage [maybe 5 yrs older] & if the motor died today I'd be replacing the dryer.
But that is as much because I'm able to plop down the $300 for a new one without much pain as it is a dollars and sense decision. A couple years ago I'd be looking in my shed to see if one of the dozen or so motors I've scavenged from washers & dryers at the curb would fit. Then I'd be calling the local motor-repair place to see if they had a used one. . . . Then I'd be shopping the wantads for a used dryer in the same model so I could scavenge parts.
See if you can find the 'cost to operate' on that old dryer. [if you bought it new the big yellow tag might be with your manual] Compare it to a new one. [I'd multiply the old number by 1.5 or 2 to allow for lost efficiency due to worn bearings, dust, etc.]
Then add up the cost of a motor, tension pulley, front door gasket. [and for fun note that the control panel is no longer available through Sears, though it might be the same as a Whirlpool]
Look at an equivalent dryer. Calculate the cost to operate and the cost to purchase. . .
Jim [Oh-- one other thing. If you happen to be married or living with a person who is more likely to be doing laundry than you are. . . . A new washer or dryer is worth a bucket full of brownie points.]
I'm guessing that the reason his breakers don't trip is the same reason mine don't. They are old. My breaker panel was made in 1962 and so far every breaker I have tested won't trip. They don't last forever!
Dryer (and washer) motors have a built in thermal cut out which will open the circuit to the windings if it senses too high of amperage draw or too high of temperature. There are few failures in a dryer which will result on the house fuse or breaker opening.
JFYI
Dan O.
- Appliance411.com
If the rest of the dryer is in decent shape, replacing the motor (even if it could use drum seals, etc. too) may be a worth while investment. IMO chances are good that it may even last longer than any new models on the market now a days.
You can see the motor used on your dryer at the following link:
Dan O.
- Appliance411.com
Thanks to everyone who replied to my posts. Your posts helped me to figure out what to do.
I replaced the motor and the dryer is running like a champ. It dries stuff much faster than before.
The motor cost me $90, plus 2 hours worth of work and a couple of small cuts.
Christmas blessings to all.
Chuck
No offense intended, but no small motor should have cost $90 (US?) If you are near a major city, find the wholesale district, in Richmond, VA it's called Scott's Addition, near the Coke plant, and almost every single thing is Thanks to everyone who replied to my posts. Your posts helped me to
Tim,
No offense taken. Everybody I checked with (including sears parts) were going to charge me $90 - $95... I went with the folks who were the closest to me.
Thanks for the heads up Tim.
Chuck
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