I just bought a used Kawasaki GE2200, and have two questions:
1) It says 115V, and I thought that was a misuse, but it really is 115V!
Their GE2900 is 120V. Why would they do that? I know it is within 5% so
everything should be okay, but is there anything to worry about?
2) They say you can make it a bit quieter at the expense of a little power
by changing it from 60cycle to 50cycle. They say that nothing will be
adversely affected. (except clocks, I am guessing.) Is that correct that
you can make it 50cycle without any adverse effect on motors and
I'd be very careful about using 50Hz on any 60Hz device with a motor or
transformer: at a lower frequency a higher current will flow through
anything with a coil winding, and the resulting overheating could be
dangerous. I blew up a 60Hz "wall wart" when I used it (with a
transformer) in UK.
On 10/07/03 11:35 pm John put fingers to keyboard and launched the
following message into cyberspace:
Tested with nominal load?
There are many different kind of meters.
Most are average reading, some are RMS reading, rarely some are peak
reading. Indirectly if frequency is not ao 60 Hz steady, that indicates
overload condition or poor regulation. VERY seldom frequency goes higher.
The voltage will go down when the load goes up. It can go down to the level
that electric motors overheat and get damaged. See the issue of Consumer
Reports that came out today. (Though no Kawasaki was evaluated.)
Don <donwiss at panix.com>.
Before I bought it I tested it with a electric garden blower.
On line it takes 18.3a to start, and 10.6a to run.
On gen it takes 17.9a to start, and 11.1 to run.
I figure that 18a is pretty close to the max for the gen (2200w), so it fell
a tad short. And it did better than line because the wiring was shorter.
Well, that's my explanation, and I figured it proved the generator was
If anyone has an alternate explanation...
Some devices are sensitive to the 50/60 cycle thing. Many that are
sensitive will also be sensitive to the less than perfect wave pattern most
generators make anyway. I suggest not using any sensitive electronic on
The voltage in many States used to be 115 or even 110 until recently
when the whole country was supposed to go to a standard 120 volts.
An older machine would have been designed for 115 volts whereas a
newer one would conform to the new standard. It's called progress.
Excellent advice. In most cases after the utility confirms the
problem, the solution will be simply for them to change to a different
tap on the distribution transformer, and in rare instances to change
the transformer itself.
A point worth noting is that the IEEE standard carries no legal
authority of its own, however the rules of the public utilities
commission (or equivalent legal body in your state) will generally
echo such guidelines in give them the strength of law.
Still, your first step should be to contact your utility. If results
are not obtained (which in most cases they will be), call the state
agency having the administrative responsibility for matters like this.
This is very good advice with one possible exception, which could be beyond
your control, or access. While the tap change could address your low voltage
situation, it's only a reasonable solution if the low voltage condition is
relatively consistent. If your voltage is low for periods, then much higher
during other periods, a tap change to correct for the low condition could
result in overly high voltage when the system voltage returns to a higher
The advice to contact the regulatory agency governing your electric utility
is also spot on. Public utilities can be pounded rather severely if enough
unresolved complaints accrue.
Remove the two fish in address to respond
The engine RPM of your generator is in a constant catch up game with
Increase load on the generator, mechanical load increases on the engine,
RPM drops, throttle opens, engine picks up speed. Decrease load. the
Your generator is not putting out a constant 60 cycle AC. Listen to the
sound of the engine as load changes. I wouldn't be surprised if there
10 % swing in speed as loads change. Your likely running between 55 and
Now you want to run at 50 cycles. Think about it.
"They" won't be there when your furnace motor or fridge go Bye Bye.
I'd like to be there when you tell "them" your PC only goes Beep Beep.
I usually end my post by saying something like Good Luck
In your case it's Good Insurance
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