You should have made some voltage checks before just changing out parts.
With the 'free' Harbor Freight or other inexpensive meters around for
under $ 20 there is no excuse for not having one and learning how to
make some basic voltage checks.
It could be something as simple as a breaker tripped or another switch
in the house turned off. As someone mentioned there may be a 'light
sensor' in the thing that has gone bad.
Is that carriage light on a post some distance from the house ?
Did someone dig up the ground and cut the wire while planting something
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Jul 2016 17:15:18 GMT in alt.home.repair, wrote:
Umm.. It sounds to me like you don't have a multimeter or any other
means of safe voltage testing? And you don't seem to know what you're
doing with the wiring either...It's not exactly rocket science
Have you checked to make sure the breaker (or fuse isn't blown if it's
fused, you haven't said.... so) isn't off or tripped?
Do you have access to a multimeter? There's several things which could
cause the issue you're having. It would be helpful especially for you,
if you had a multimeter to do some basic troubleshooting.
That's a lot of parts swapping for the same result. The chances of all
components being bad at the same time and also being bad swap outs at
the same time aren't really that great. So, unless you seriously
screwed up the rewiring process, I'd say you (a) don't have power going
to the light fixture, possibly not even to the switch or (b) you've
lost the neutral someplace along the way.
With a multimeter, it wouldn't take you very long to determine which
one it most likely is. And, of course, it should go without saying, you
do need to know how to use the multimeter.
Standard disclaimer about risk of burns, severe shock, potential
death, etc, applies.
MID: <nb7u27$crn$ firstname.lastname@example.org>
Hmmm. I most certainly don't understand how I can access a copy of a
Ahh, that's your problem. The distance from the switch is too long. Why didn't you tell us about the distance in the
beginning? You need to go to 220 volts instead of 120 volts. Let us know how that works.
I was going to say something similar about the distance "There's your
problem right there, it should be metric".
But then try to actually be little helpful by agreeing that a
multimeter being a *really useful* tool for this sort of thing. Even
one of those 'testers' with indicators for combinations of hot,
neutral, and ground would be good, but a multimeter is best IMO.
A qualified electrician is even better, because there is always the
chance that somebody's second ex-great step-uncle in law installed the
thing in the first place and accidentally used neutral switching.
On Wednesday, July 27, 2016 at 4:24:37 PM UTC-4, Gordon Shumway wrote:
The one that said "Besides, "single-pole switch" implies "basic.""
As if a light fixture with a motion sensor can't be controlled by a
single-pole switch. Does it take some kind of complex multi-pole switch
to control the power to a fixture with a motion sensor? How does the type
of switch imply *anything* about the complexity of the fixture?
...and the one that said "I didn't see any."
Two idiots rolled into one.
Getting a little away from the *other* subterfuge, but there's more
than that amount of voltage between your feet and your head. It's the
charge that has to travel through the wire, not the voltage. Current is
the flow of charge, so some may argue that current also "flows".
Just to be more clear, current is the 'rate of' flow of charge. Saying
that current flows through a wire is like saying MPH rolls down the
highway. Common language doesn't make that distinction though.
Gordon Shumway was just joking about the distance between the switch
and the lamp being at all relevant. I was more replying to the idea of
"travel" over some length of wire than I was the use of "volts".
Current (in Amps) is just as bad really as it is "charge" which
actually flows, not current or voltage.
Anyway, this trivia doesn't really help you because theory isn't what
you need to fix your problem. IMO what you need is a multimeter and
someone who knows how to use it. Preferably a licensed electrician.
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