I have several 1/2" carriage bolts that I can not tighten because the
head of the bolts rotates. Is there a trick to removing these bolts? I
suspect I could cut slots in the head of the bolt or in the body of
the screw or cut the nut off. Any other ideas? Once I get them out,
what is the best way to fix the problem?
Take an angle grinder and grind off the nut. Have a pitcher of water
handy because the wood will smoke and could catch on fire, but just
douse it with water when the nut is off. Of course, you'll have to
replace the bolt and nut with a new one later, but a standard hex head
bolt with a large washer on both sides works well.
I dont think epoxy is strong enough, but JB Weld might work. I have
also drilled a hole in the head and driven in a nail on an angle thru
the head into the wood. But that depends on how rusted the nut is to
the bolt. They also sell nut splitters, I never had much luck with
them but I may have had a cheap one.
Grinding is normally the quickest and easiest.
On 5/4/2011 3:32 AM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
That's an idea I hadn't ever thought of (the nail in a hole, that is)...
I've used the nut splitter successfully, but only on larger than 3/8" w/
For the fix, certainly the machine bolt/washer works; for the
appearances sake on occasion I've used washer w/ square hold and stayed
w/ the carriage bolt. If necessary, one can use the nail-in-a-hole thru
the washer for turning resistance. Generally in that case I'll also
plug the original hole w/ a harder wood insert for the new bolt
shoulders to have something to bite into.
Was sorta' figuring the deck or similar would be application; since most
is either treated or cedar or other very soft woods, the holes don't
tend to last long before do get rounded over. A piece of fir or some
handy hardwood can work for the purpose w/o too much effort.
But, the 'cheap 'n cheery' way is to simply go to the machine bolt, agreed.
Thanks for the suggestions. Some of the ideas, I never would hane
Since some of the nuts are recessed into the wood, I will need to try
several of these ideas. If I can remove the nut, I can use a hex bolt
or counter bore the hole to get to fresh wood. Since these are
galvanized carriage bolt, most are not rusted.
Yep. Until I bought a cordless Dremel kit with a boatload of accessories, I
didn't have any idea how useful it could be. The cut-off disks and the
little wire brushes do an awful lot of work around here. The screw
extractor and matching drill get a lot of use. So do the sanding drums and
the soft bristle brush which makes cleaning gunked up mouse rollers a snap.
Just got a flex extension for mine. The only gripe I have about the
cordless models is that the switch is designed
HI OFF LO
when it should be
OFF LO HI.
Sometimes it takes my twitching fingers two or three tries to get it to the
center OFF position. Recently upgraded to the LiON model. Much better
performance than the old NiCad unit, especially if it's been lying around
for a while unused. I always had to recharge the NiCad unit before use but
the LiON model always has enough charge left to handle at least a three
minute job. Makes a difference.
Does the bolt stem stick out past the nut? You might be able to
keep the bolt from turning with a pair of vice grips on the stem if so.
I wonder if there would be some sort of soft (brass) washer that
could help fill the hole where the bolt head fits. That might keep a
new one from turning.
Torque washers, presumably.
I've never seen one in person, but they appeared in the mkfeelys catalog
that was part of the junk mail barrage after my first HF online order
some years ago. I wish I'd known about them earlier.
I use them all the time in pt lumber. You just need to make sure the
hole is just the right size so the square part under the head is
forced into the wood.
But I think they are orginally designed to be used in metal stuff with
a square hole so that the carriage bolt is held properly. My guess is
they originally had a specific application on horse drawn carriages.
Ding, ding, ding...we have a winner!!! :)
Of course, they were carried over in a lot of early horseless carriages,
farm equipment and other applications, too. They smooth, clean head is
of great value in some applications as well as simply the appearance.
They work good in wood _for the first use_, i.e., tightening. The
problem arises when one wants to remove them.
One of the common places they were/are found is in the bed of carts,
wagons, etc to give a smooth floor so stuff slides out and a shovel
doesn't catch on the bolt head.
Of course, problem w/ a plow bolt in many of those applications is that
the thickness of the metal was/is not enough to allow the necessary
countersink; hence the carriage bolt w/ the bearing surface of the head
as least obtrusive alternative.
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