Problem tightening carriage bolts.

[dpb]

On 5/5/2011 9:19 AM, Harry K wrote: ...

...

The scoop _still_ catches... :) (even though not so badly/often)

Plow bolts are the true answer there.

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[DerbyDad03]

Carriage bolts also have better aerodynamic properties than hex head bolts. Not as good as elevator bolts, but certainly better than hex head.

When using hex head bolts and aerodymics need to be considered, always ensure that a point faces into the wind, not a flat side.

[Jon Danniken]

They are also useful for secure installations where one side of the fastener will be exposed to a non-secured location, such as on a pet door.

Jon

[dpb]

Of course, problem w/ a plow bolt in many of those applications is that the thickness of the metal was/is not enough to allow the necessary countersink; hence the carriage bolt w/ the bearing surface of the head as least obtrusive alternative.

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[DerbyDad03]

Actually, an elevator bolt would be even less obtrusive. However, carriage bolts do come in much larger sizes than elevator bolts, so, as usual, it really depends on the application.

[dpb]

Thinner than the round carriage bolt, sure, but not countersunk as a plow bolt is in a plow share. A scoop could still catch the edge of an elevator bolt.

Indeed, the application is the key; I was speaking of the wagon bed usage of the previous poster re: common usage of a carriage bolt and commenting that, _IF_ (the proverbial big if) there were the thickness for the countersink a plow bolt could be make totally flush w/ the floor (or even slightly under) and avoid the scoop catch problem entirely. Never seen it, however (altho certainly have a multitude of plow bolts on the planters and other tillage implements even though w/ no- and low-till practice of today the number of different implements that actually turn the soil is far fewer than used to be 30 years ago)...

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[DerbyDad03]

I don't know squat about plow shares, but I have used Grade 8 fender washers and hex bolts to "counter sink" (read: "dent") boards so that the elevator bolts will be flush with the surface.

If the wood is too hard the elevator bolts tend to break before "counter sinking" themselves, but a hex bolt and Grade 8 fender washer will usually get the job done.

[noname87]

I like the torque washer idea. Unfortunately, I cannot locate a supplier for the 1/2" size. Any recommendations?

[Robert Green]

Yep. Until I bought a cordless Dremel kit with a boatload of accessories, I didn't have any idea how useful it could be. The cut-off disks and the little wire brushes do an awful lot of work around here. The screw extractor and matching drill get a lot of use. So do the sanding drums and the soft bristle brush which makes cleaning gunked up mouse rollers a snap. Just got a flex extension for mine. The only gripe I have about the cordless models is that the switch is designed

HI OFF LO

when it should be

OFF LO HI.

Sometimes it takes my twitching fingers two or three tries to get it to the center OFF position. Recently upgraded to the LiON model. Much better performance than the old NiCad unit, especially if it's been lying around for a while unused. I always had to recharge the NiCad unit before use but the LiON model always has enough charge left to handle at least a three minute job. Makes a difference.

-- Bobby G.

[krw]

3: Take the stop out of the switch and let it spin all the way 'round.