Wood router duty cycle?

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    Well ... that may depend on how old it is. I have a Craftsman router from about 1976 which would clamp nicely to some channel (with clearance milled for the larger air intake at the top) which would probably do quite well for the task.
    But more recent ones are certainly not as durable.
    Enjoy,         DoN.
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Ignoramus12820 wrote:

You have compressed air available and the router will be fixed on the machine, so just adapt it for forced cooling air. Fabricate a manifold to introduce the cooling air (via a filter and a throttling valve) to the top intake of the router. You'll benefit both from the cooling action of the decompressed air, as well as a clean air source.
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You know Pete, this is a good idea. It definitely needs a good filter, but it is a great suggestion. It may be that I can find a "turbine" for paint sprayers that would deliver more air at the pressure that I need, as opposed to a compressor.
After a lot of thinking, etc, I have decided to bite the bullet and bought this Bosch router:
Bosch 1617EVS 2-1/4 HP Variable-Speed Router (Amazon.com product link shortened) />/
It is only marginally more expensive than Colt, and should be trivial to mount in a clamp, due to its round body. The speed range of 8,000 to 25,000 RPM is also ideal for me. Soft start is also a huge plus. It comes with a 1/2 and 1/4" collet.
i
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On Aug 19, 1:00 pm, Ignoramus12820 <ignoramus12...@NOSPAM. 12820.invalid> wrote:

I know of a few CNC's (General Gorilla) that use those 2.25HP (1/2" shank!!!!) Bosch's in school settings. Aside from the noise, they're holding up very well. Shopbot also sells a 3.25 HP universal motor PC router body that also seems to run quite well.... but they do offer rebuild-kits matter of factly. I run an Elte 3HP 3phase spindle off a VFD and it runs quietly and full power at any speed....and cool.
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I have put 100's of hours on a PC 690, used for wood as well as high density polyethelene (hdpe) with 1/2" diameter bits running 3 inches/ second (60% cut, 1/4" max depth per cut).
Wore the brushes out, replaced them from the ShopBot spares kit, original bearings still working just fine. The dust collection does pull the exhaust air from the collet end (the only danger I saw was the sparks from brush end of life and fine sawdust mixing ... no fires or explosions, thank you very much.
I tend to run the 690 on the middle of the 5 available speeds ... no noise reduction, just adjusted everything for shavings per bit manufacturer.
Hope this helps.
Rick
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I used to work in a place that used router tables to trim plastic. The routers were working continuously for up to three hours at a time. Only thing they ever needed was normal bearing replacement. Porter Cable 690 routers.
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Good to know. I will use a Bosch router that can be easily mounted inside a round clamp.
i
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Ignoramus12820 wrote:

The PC 690 routers (and most other brands) are also round bodied.
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Ignoramus12820 wrote:

I wouldn't worry about it . That thing has a fan , and it'll be blowing chips out of it's own way . If you want something with more oomph , check out the Porter Cable line of 1/2" capacity routers - they go up to 2+HP and have a motor housing that's designed to be clamped in a base or fixture . Just make sure you don't get coolant up inside the motor , that can get colorful ...
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We use Hitachi 3hp plunge routers. They often run 8 hours a day. They last 6 months and then I throw them away. We used to get them rebuilt but the cost curve says "pitch 'em!". Usually, the bearings go first but that's not all...everything just wears out! I have boxes and boxes of all the accoutrements that come with these that never get used. I just can't pitch them. I more than get my money out of them!
For your use, you're gold!
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Any idea what spindle runout you get on those while they are relatively new?
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Sorry, that was never a concern. We rout a 2" x 1/8" x 2-1/2" groove in Beech. It's not to critical, just good enough to index a long handle. What runout are you looking for?
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I am not sure, the less the better, 0.003-4 worst case, hopefully better. It would be OK for engraving, but not for precision work. I really do not know what I will be dealing with.
i
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On Thu, 19 Aug 2010 07:32:16 -0500, Ignoramus12820

The Colt is the standard router for the CNC Shark sold by Rockler. It's one loud sucker but a good unit.
You can also get aftermarket collets for it for the purpose
http://www.precisebits.com/products/equipment/bosch_colt_collets_nuts.asp#Bosch_Colt_Collets
So it's fair to say quite a few people disagree with the fellow you spoke with.
I haven't tried those collets but I will say that the factory collet seems to get hot even with a short, non-taxing cut, in a way my normal routers never do under any circumstance. I don't know if this is the collet or the router, but it doesn't seem to hurt anything other than my fingertips if I don't give it a bit to cool down.
-Kevin
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On Thu, 19 Aug 2010 07:32:16 -0500, Ignoramus12820 wrote:

CoolantManifold_1.jpg
Without reading this whole thread I will throw in my 2 cents worth. I am more familiar with woodworking and routers than with metalworking. I have had routers in router tables that literally ran continuous for 8 to 10 hours per day, day in and day out, some carrying fairly heavy bits. They do have cooling fans, and in most router tables they are upside down so they must have fans to keep them from filling up with chips. Recommendations would be DeWalt, Porter Cable, Bosch, some of the older commercial Black and Decker units, or, if you can find one, a Stanley round top router. I prefer the Stanley because they are easy to mount, all metal, have a very strong bearing setup, and tend to be quieter than most because they turn slower (usually around 18,000 rpm instead of 25,000) and have such a strong bearing mount.
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i use a colt and i am doing back to back 8 hr runs in mahogany. Its got one hell of a duty cycle if you ask me.
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On 12/27/2016 2:32 AM, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

You did how many 8 hour runs?
Most any decent brand tool will make up to several runs like that but can you do it 8/30 or 8/365?
But if it continues to do this, GREAT!
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wrote:

Duty cycle depends on load.
If you have a 1/2 inch 3 HP router that draws 20 ampos at full load, and you run it at about 7 amps you can likely run it constantly without ever coming close to over-heating it. Duty cycle is generally pretty closely related to the ability of a device to shed excessive heat I know my 13 amp router gets plenty hot if worked hard for 15 minutes without reducing the load, yet stays comfortable to the touch if lightly loaded for the same period of time.. My lirrle Stanley (all metal trademaster? from the sixties) cools pretty well when rinning with the5/8 inch? plane trimming door edges.
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On Thu, 29 Dec 2016 16:35:11 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

Yes, heat is always the enemy. Unless he's taking really small bites of the Mahogany (e.g. CNC light engraving), I'm surprised he can even *hold* the Colt after eight hours.
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And remember to blow out the fan area and keep it clean - more air flow and less heat.
Going around corners might be a time to unload it cool it off and attack the next side. If slots ... between cuts.
Sometimes light turning cools faster than sitting off.
Martin
On 12/29/2016 4:22 PM, snipped-for-privacy@notreal.com wrote:

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