Does anyone have a Bosch Colt router with the standard base? I'm trying to find out the minimum distance from the edge of the standard base to the center of the bit. In other words, how close to the wall can I get with the standard base?
I went to the Bosch site and found a lot of info but couldn't find any measurements as to the size of the base.
Thanks for any help,
Mike O.
Just went and measured mine, two inches.
It's 1 7/8" on three sides. If 1 3/4" will do the trick for your application, I think that can be obtained by replacing the knurled capped locking screw with a regular screw or bolt (I think it's a ¼x20)
Oh Lord.
You beat me to it. :-)
My router damnit. It was -7C when I posted that, I dare yours to be longer in those conditions. :-)
I can't even find mine in those conditions :-).
Two inches more will make you a King Two inches less will make you a Queen
This may be a bit off topic, but if you haven't yet purchased a palm router= , I'd consider a different brand or model. I've found the adjustments to b= e a bit fussy, the base removal/reattachment to be difficult and the depth = adjustment to be "spontaneously variable", if you know what I mean. (it sl= ips) Just my opinion.
JP
I'd consider a different brand or model. I've found the adjustments to be a bit fussy, the base removal/reattachment to be difficult and the depth adjustment to be "spontaneously variable", if you know what I mean. (it slips) Just my opinion.
I found my Colt to just wonderful for the job intended with no slip. Used brand new Lee Valley bits.
I vote in favor of the Bosch. I have four routers and the Colt is my first choice whenever I am doing free hand or edge routing. My experience is that the depth adjust with the combination of coarse and fine adjusters is easy and locks in solidly. The base comes off easily once you learn to follow the instructions although it isn't immediately obvious. I hav heard of problems with the shaft lock button but I have not run into it myself.
My only complaint is the limitation to 1/4 shaft bits. I usually buy bits in
1/2".That comes with the territory when you're dealing with palm routers. I don't know of any palm router that will take a 1/2" bit ~ too damned dangerous putting a 1/2" bit in a palm router in my opinion. Likely to twist your wrist off when you start it up.
Thanks guys,
Mike...still laughing.
Like mine also.
As far as utility, it will do most jobs that a 1/4" shank bit can do on almost any router. AAMOF, used it over the five other routers in the shop just last week to cut some 1/4 x 3/4 critically located dadoes in a large, suspended kitchen base cabinet:
I knew that when I bought it. No big deal, but I can still complain.
I don't see that, especially with the soft start. If I had two bits with the same cutter design but different shafts, the rotational inertia difference between the 1/4 and 1/2" shafts is not much.
Totally part of the overall design look for the project.
With regard to the suspended bar cabinet, the client showed me a magazine picture of what she wanted (she also had a designer, but that's another story) and, of course, I said no problemo ... :)
Don't want to hijack this thread, but I'll keep the photo links of the project updated as we go along in another thread in case you're interested. I keep a photo record partly for insurance purposes, partly for client info, and to document progress not done onsite:
The little Bosch Colt has paid for itself many times over by coming through on jobs like this. A great deal of what I like about it is that its size makes it ideal for work where you need to go slow and carefully ... as long as you take it slow and carefully.
Great little machine, and it also does laminate trimming ... go figure! LOL
I have the Colt and truly do 'love' it. Mainly for the ease of handling when I need to do a bunch of round overs. I typically keep a 1/4" RO bit installed.
Dislikes: The shaft lock is made of soft/stamped steel and this self-destructed almost immediately. I had to grind down a set of old wrenches to fit the narrow slit in the shaft.
The base lock lever is weird, If I adjust it so the base locks snugly to the motor, it won't loosen enough to allow the base to be easily removed. Since I keep it set up with the RO bit, this is a minor issue.
The router does come with a pile of accessories which make it very adaptable.
-Bruce
"Bruce" wrote
I have yet to meet a router that has a shaft lock that is strong enough for my satisfactions.
I wish they all just had a place to put the second wrench, and be done with the nonsense.
Well that's interesting feedback. I use primarily Porter Cable palm router= s - the tall one and the shorty. I think, perhaps, I'll have to get one of= my own for my home shop to give it a try. The tools in my work shop tend = not to be well taken care of, and perhaps that may be part of the reason fo= r my bad experience. I really do like the ergonomics of it. =20
JP
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